bleeding the lines
02-06-2008, 06:31 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ny
Posts: 404
bleeding the lines
my 67 mustang has to brake pedal(no literally, it just goes to the floor and there is no pressure)...the lines look good and it is not leaking any break fluid anywhere. can just bleeding out the lines fix this problem?
02-06-2008, 06:40 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 815
RE: bleeding the lines
Yes it can!
I bled for hours on a 78 z28 one time ,no pedal at all.
Then a friend showed me the easy way with 4 self bleeders and 4 coke cans.
btw have you changed your master cylinder?
If you did it needs to be bench bled. Try cracking a line @ the master and look for fluid and go down the system from there.
Works best with 2 one pumping and the other bleeding.
I bled for hours on a 78 z28 one time ,no pedal at all.
Then a friend showed me the easy way with 4 self bleeders and 4 coke cans.
btw have you changed your master cylinder?
If you did it needs to be bench bled. Try cracking a line @ the master and look for fluid and go down the system from there.
Works best with 2 one pumping and the other bleeding.
02-06-2008, 06:43 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sugar Land, Texas
Posts: 566
RE: bleeding the lines
If you apply the brake and the pedal goes down all the way slowly, you may have a bad master cylinder. Could be alot of air in the brake lines but best guess would be master cylinder from what you are saying...keep us posted of what you come up with..
02-06-2008, 09:27 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salisbury NC
Posts: 1,576
RE: bleeding the lines
how do you keep the fluid from flowing out when you put em on?
you only need 1 hand and 5 fingers to get the bleeders in
that leaves the other hand and 5 fingers free for doing whatever, you know, scratching your ***, pickin your nose, or maybe even plugging the hole that has brake fluid running out of it
02-06-2008, 09:31 PM
#6
Yukon Cornelius
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
RE: bleeding the lines
could be the master cylinder leaking internally.
but heres the best procedure for bleeding the brakes
Bleeding the brakes requires a properly sized box wrench for the bleeder and the clear plastic bleed hose provided with your system. Good quality, non-silicone fluid is also a must. Baer Brakes has tested a wide variety of fluids and strongly recommends Performance Friction’s Z-Rated fluid #90016 for street and occasional track use (with Motorcraft PM1 our backup suggestion for this same duty). These two have been proven to be more effective than fluids that are often many times more expensive. For racing, Baer recommends and uses only Castrol SRF. Baer stocks and sells both the Performance Friction Z-Rated and Castrol SRF. Always remember, good to excellent brakes or fluid do not function without adequate cooling. In fact, the more serious your brake system, the more attention that needs to be directed to proper ducting, as they will generate more heat due to increased capacity. BLEEDING BRAKES IS NOT DONE WITH PRESSURE, IT IS PURELY A FUNCTION OF MOVING FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. THE OBJECT IS TO DISPLACE AIR, NOT TO SEE HOW FAR FLUID CAN BE SHOT OUT OF THE CALIPER!
Proper Bleeding Technique Enlist someone who will help you bleed the brakes. Make sure they also read these instructions carefully (so they understand the goal). [ol][*]For systems which are essentially dry front and rear, start by filling the master cylinder with proper fluid. Pour slowly so as not to aerate the fluid.[*]Next, move to the first caliper, attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open it. Hold the hose upright so that you can monitor the escape of air bubbles. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until fluid comes out. Now close the bleeder.[*]ACTUAL BLEEDING SEQUENCE: [ul][*]Have your partner very slowly, with modest pressure (approximately 25-30 lbs.ft.), stroke the pedal ONE TIME until hydraulic resistance is encountered. Ask your partner to hold at this point with the same modest and even pressure and notify you that he is “holding.â€[*]Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it stops, using the same modest level of pressure, then close the bleeder again. Notify your partner “the system is sealed.†He can then slowly release pedal pressure.[/ul][*]Repeat the BLEEDING SEQUENCE (never stroke the pedal more than one time) until all signs of air are purged (no bubbles) from fluid. IMPORTANT [ul][*]NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY! Be sure to check the fluid level after every third bleeding sequence or sooner if reservoir volume is very small.[/ul][*]Before moving to the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a plastic hammer and carefully tap the caliper to dislodge any additional air bubbles that may be trapped. Then bleed one last time.[*]Move to the next caliper and repeat the procedures previously outlined. Continue until all calipers have been bled. Before re-installing wheels and placing the car on the ground, we recommend you carefully wipe clean all caliper surfaces, hose joints and fittings, making sure they are all dry and free from seepage. If not, inspect and tighten appropriately. Spray all rotor surfaces with Brake Kleen® or a similar product to remove all dirt and oils from your hands that may have been transferred to the rotor during assembly. Also remember to remove the nut that has been holding rotor in place before attempting to re-install the wheel.[/ol] For street use, as with any time you open the brake system, it may be advisable to repeat the bleeding procedure after driving the vehicle for a day, as driving the car may dislodge some additional air bubbles. For competition cars, we recommend repeating this procedure directly after at least the first two sessions the car is on track and at the beginning of each race weekend thereafter. Even if your pedal is high and firm and additional bleeding is deemed unnecessary, always inspect the calipers, hoses and fittings after the first outing for signs of any fluid seepage and correct immediately.
but heres the best procedure for bleeding the brakes
Bleeding the brakes requires a properly sized box wrench for the bleeder and the clear plastic bleed hose provided with your system. Good quality, non-silicone fluid is also a must. Baer Brakes has tested a wide variety of fluids and strongly recommends Performance Friction’s Z-Rated fluid #90016 for street and occasional track use (with Motorcraft PM1 our backup suggestion for this same duty). These two have been proven to be more effective than fluids that are often many times more expensive. For racing, Baer recommends and uses only Castrol SRF. Baer stocks and sells both the Performance Friction Z-Rated and Castrol SRF. Always remember, good to excellent brakes or fluid do not function without adequate cooling. In fact, the more serious your brake system, the more attention that needs to be directed to proper ducting, as they will generate more heat due to increased capacity. BLEEDING BRAKES IS NOT DONE WITH PRESSURE, IT IS PURELY A FUNCTION OF MOVING FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. THE OBJECT IS TO DISPLACE AIR, NOT TO SEE HOW FAR FLUID CAN BE SHOT OUT OF THE CALIPER!
Proper Bleeding Technique Enlist someone who will help you bleed the brakes. Make sure they also read these instructions carefully (so they understand the goal). [ol][*]For systems which are essentially dry front and rear, start by filling the master cylinder with proper fluid. Pour slowly so as not to aerate the fluid.[*]Next, move to the first caliper, attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open it. Hold the hose upright so that you can monitor the escape of air bubbles. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until fluid comes out. Now close the bleeder.[*]ACTUAL BLEEDING SEQUENCE: [ul][*]Have your partner very slowly, with modest pressure (approximately 25-30 lbs.ft.), stroke the pedal ONE TIME until hydraulic resistance is encountered. Ask your partner to hold at this point with the same modest and even pressure and notify you that he is “holding.â€[*]Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it stops, using the same modest level of pressure, then close the bleeder again. Notify your partner “the system is sealed.†He can then slowly release pedal pressure.[/ul][*]Repeat the BLEEDING SEQUENCE (never stroke the pedal more than one time) until all signs of air are purged (no bubbles) from fluid. IMPORTANT [ul][*]NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY! Be sure to check the fluid level after every third bleeding sequence or sooner if reservoir volume is very small.[/ul][*]Before moving to the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a plastic hammer and carefully tap the caliper to dislodge any additional air bubbles that may be trapped. Then bleed one last time.[*]Move to the next caliper and repeat the procedures previously outlined. Continue until all calipers have been bled. Before re-installing wheels and placing the car on the ground, we recommend you carefully wipe clean all caliper surfaces, hose joints and fittings, making sure they are all dry and free from seepage. If not, inspect and tighten appropriately. Spray all rotor surfaces with Brake Kleen® or a similar product to remove all dirt and oils from your hands that may have been transferred to the rotor during assembly. Also remember to remove the nut that has been holding rotor in place before attempting to re-install the wheel.[/ol] For street use, as with any time you open the brake system, it may be advisable to repeat the bleeding procedure after driving the vehicle for a day, as driving the car may dislodge some additional air bubbles. For competition cars, we recommend repeating this procedure directly after at least the first two sessions the car is on track and at the beginning of each race weekend thereafter. Even if your pedal is high and firm and additional bleeding is deemed unnecessary, always inspect the calipers, hoses and fittings after the first outing for signs of any fluid seepage and correct immediately.
02-13-2008, 07:42 AM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 815
RE: bleeding the lines
ORIGINAL: flyingfool
cmanf, ive seen those things! almonst bought some, but never heard of anyone using em. they work well? how do you keep the fluid from flowing out when you put em on?
cmanf, ive seen those things! almonst bought some, but never heard of anyone using em. they work well? how do you keep the fluid from flowing out when you put em on?
02-13-2008, 07:47 AM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mansfield, Texas
Posts: 880
RE: bleeding the lines
ORIGINAL: cmanf
They have a one way check valve in them.
ORIGINAL: flyingfool
cmanf, ive seen those things! almonst bought some, but never heard of anyone using em. they work well? how do you keep the fluid from flowing out when you put em on?
cmanf, ive seen those things! almonst bought some, but never heard of anyone using em. they work well? how do you keep the fluid from flowing out when you put em on?
02-13-2008, 07:52 AM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 815
RE: bleeding the lines
Summit It was a gift from the guy that showed me his setup. I think NAPA may carry them now also. All they are is bleeder with the check ball, they look a lil longer. I still used the old soda cans and vac line to catch the fluid. Just crack them open and push the air out Think it took me about half the fluid pumped thru so watch your level. then just tightened them back up done.
I didnt think it would work due to you dont tighten them till you get a feel for the pedal.
They dont allow air to get back in so it goes quick.
I didnt think it would work due to you dont tighten them till you get a feel for the pedal.
They dont allow air to get back in so it goes quick.