Speed Bleeders work awesome. You can get the Russell version or thegeneric brand (can't remember the name)that is sold in most local auto parts stores (I have used both and they work the same). I would try that first, because it is easiest. They run about$20 for a set of 4 but they are worth their weight in gold. I can bleed my system all by myself, and get it right in about 10-15 minutes every time.

If that doesn't helphere is an easy way to "bench bleed" yourmaster cylinder while it ison the car (also foolproof). I got one pre-flared line from O'Reillys that is about 3 feet.Cut it into two shorter lines, and make the bends(adding the appropriate fittings first).The second picture shows the completed lines. Attach them to your MC, and get in the car and pump away.The key thing is that the line going back into the MChas to be submerged so that it doesn't suck air back in. You need to pump it tillno more air bubbles appear when pumping. When done just reattach your old lines.

Obviouslyyou can use the lines on your bench as well..I personally think it is way easier doing it on the car.

Hope this helps.

http://www.fastbackmustang.com/image...mcbleeding.jpg

http://www.fastbackmustang.com/image...cbleeding2.jpg

 

Oh I know what you mean ... gotcha

 

and in response to 66FB - that's a great idea - I'd seen the same approach but manually (as in, you're shoving the rod into the MC yourself, and doing it. Probably easier your way

 

Well if the MC is on your car it is really a savior, b/c I hate getting under the dash to unhook the darn thing. I can't remember where I saw that idea (maybe JamesW's site). Worked like a champ for me.

 

as to all the hype about the speed bleeders:
they;re great as you can do it on your own. But there's another much cheaper way, which I believe does the exact same thing.
For a few bob you can get a canister with hose for bleeding and that hose as a valve at the end as well (very primitive).
You just have to make sure that the canister is quarter full with fluid before you start bleeding (so the submerged hose cannot suck air).
From there it's the exact same ... and you can use it on any car without the price of the speed bleeders

 

ok, so i tried to bleed the lines this weekend...i say try, bc wen i went to bleed the rear right brake, nothin happened. i just filled the master cylinder so i knew it was full. i then noticed fluid dripping down my rear from the top where the brake line runs across it...i told my brother to pump the brake again after i shut the bleeder, and when he did, i got shot with brake fluid haha...so now im doing everything over...stainless steel of course. any suggestions?

 

Change the lines, (stainless or steel - its a price point)and then bleed em out, its not rocket science.

 

Yep. It may have bled the master reservoir dry from the leak. Be prepared to bleed it as well if just bleeding all four brakes doesn't give good pedal.

You may not be aware of it - but bleed starting from the brake farthest from the master cylinder and work closer. So RR, then LR and RF and then LF.

Bleed until clear fluid comes out - not just no bubbles - so the fluid is properly flushed as well.