Hi everyone.. This 2006 is my first Mustang, but it's really brought out a love for them in me.

I found a 1966 red on white V6 automatic coupe. It's a Florida car (now in NY), never been on the road up here. The guy that owns it has had it in a bar for the last 5 years, and just takes it out, washes it, and puts it back. He claims it's in VERY good condition, all original sheetmetal, and no rust.

He's asking $5800, but is willing to come down (fallen on hard times).


Since I know nothing about this body style other than it's a Mustang and I like the way it looks, what should I look for when I go to check it out? From the research I've done, $5800 seems to be reasonable to begin with, but I think I could probably get it from him for closer to $4500 (maybe $5k) if I waved cash in his face.


Anyone have any pointers for me on what to look for?

Also, I know that the engine code for the V6 is "T". But what digit is it? The 8th, correct?


Thanks in advance for all your help guys!!

 

rust is the biggest thing to look for. check the cowl by poring water down it, look for leeks in the inside. check the floor boars the fender wells and the front lower corner of the door. RUST RUST RUST it is what makes all the difference in the world

 

Not to get smart, but it is an I6 or straight 6. Anyway, I bought my 66 last year and have had 68's before. Look at floors, shock towers, look in trunk to see inside of quarters etc. See if code on inner fender matches code on door, at least then it may tell you if the car has been apart. Good Luck.

 

You know, a buddy of mine said the same thing about the engine.. Then I found this online:

Engine Offerings[*]Engine Code T: 200 cubic inch V-6 engine @ 120hp w/9.2:1 compression and a one-barrel carburetor[*]Engine Code C: 289 cubic inch V-8 engine @ 200hp w/9.3:1 compression and two-barrel carburetor[*]Engine Code A: 289 cubic inch V-8 engine @ 225hp w/10.0:1 compression and a four-barrel carburetor[*]Engine Code K: 289 cubic inch V-8 engine @ 271hp w/10.5:1 compression and a four-barrel carburetor

????

Hopefully I'll be able to get out there this weekend and take a look at it, it's about 75 miles south of my house, and the guy lives on the top of a hill that's only accessible via 4WD..

If anyone else has any advice, I'm still open.. Thanks!!!

 

That website must have been a mistake. They were only offered with the I6 and V8.

Definitely check for rust. Take a pitcher of water and pour it down the cowl. If any of it comes into the interior of the car, you would have a costly repair on your hands. Other then that, look at the floorboards and other important areas for rust. Be sure it is in good running shape. If he only pulled it out to wash it for 5 years, it might need some work because it has not been moving around, and has most likely not gotten up to operating temp.

Just curious, how are you gonna get it home if his house is only accessible by 4x4? How did he get it to his house for that matter?

 

Everyone mistakes the I6 for a V6... Don't know how though... Completely different looking engine.


I6- http://decodethis.com/DescImages/For...CID_Engine.jpg
V6- http://www.mustangphotos.com/photopo...e_resto_51.jpg

I'm not trying to be mean or anything.

 

Its only accessible by 4x4 this time of year.. I'm in Western New York, so there's LOTS of snow in the south-western part of the state this time of year.. I'd likely just work out a deak with him to keep it there until I could get it out of there. If it doesn't run, there's a guy in the local club that has a 1-ton duallie, and there two are three trailers floating around with various members.

Regardless of it's running condition, I'm not buying it for the motor. Of course I'd keep the original motor (if it is, I'd have to guess it is), and replace it with something.. Probably a 4.6 mod motor, make it a "resto-mod".. Or maybe an old-school carbed 302. Who knows. Either way, a 120HP 6 cylinder just WON'T do for me, look at what my '06 has.. I just don't want to buy a basket-case, and then be stuck. From what I've seen online of people selling '66 6 sylinder autos, $5k would be a REAL good deal. I won't know until I see it, of course, but this guy says it's in amazing shape, and he has ALL the paperwork all the way back.

I appreciate the "pour a pitcher of water down the cowl" idea. I certainly never would have done that, but now I will. I'll stop and grab a 1L bottle of water from a gas station or something on the way out. I don't know how happy the owner will be, given the freezing temps, especially if he takes as good care of it as he claimed on the phone.. But we'll see.

 

yeah and poke around the floors wioth a screwdriver looking for weak spots check all underneath and the framerails etc

 

Man... Can we drop the V6/I6 thing?? I know my way around an engine, and I'd recognize an I6 if I saw it (I did a headgasket on a 300ci I6 a bunch of years back - HEAVY head!!).. But, I haven't gone to see the car yet, and like I said, I don't know much about CLASSIC Mustangs (I'm a GM convert), so the only info I have is from that [apparently] flawed website that I pasted up a few posts ago..

*sheesh*

LOL

 

i know you know now but they're just spreading the knowledge[8D] to better educate you on the decision, most people have never seen an I6 before in a car or a I8 for that matter an inline design can build torque easily notreally counting I4's, take the straight 6 supra for instance, the more inline the more its capable of.