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Floorpan replacement questions

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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 02:37 PM
  #1  
Adrenolin's Avatar
Adrenolin
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From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Default Floorpan replacement questions

I'm ordering a passengers full floor pan, drivers long floor pan, both toeboards, passengers seat platform and front replacement torque boxes for our 67 coupe in the next few days. I've looked at a number of websites showing the procedure yet I still have a few questions.

[ol][*]What size holes should be drilled for the spot welds?[*]How far apart should the spot welds be?[*]Has anyone done a solid weld around the entire floor after spot welding for additional strength? I was asked this questions and didn't know. Would it be worthwhile running a full weld or just seam seal it after the spot welds?[*]The passengers front frame rail has come up through the missing floor about 3/8" since the floor has completely rusted away. The rail is straight just tipped up slightly. Whats the best way to correct this before doing the floor pans?[*]I'll be adding sub-frame connectors and was wondering if these should be done before or after the floors?[*]I'm guessing that because of the weakness due to the rusted floors that we should not put it on a rotisserie until after the floors or repaired correct? Once the floors are done we can pop it up on a rotisserie for media blasting.
[/ol]I'll be doing the welding myself with my father and have a professional who will be coming by to give me a few lessons and pointers. I could have him do it pretty cheap however I want to do as much work on the car as I can myself.

Any other pointers you all may have would be great! Thanks.
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:22 PM
  #2  
CalStang65's Avatar
CalStang65
 
Joined: Apr 2008
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Originally Posted by Adrenolin
I'm ordering a passengers full floor pan, drivers long floor pan, both toeboards, passengers seat platform and front replacement torque boxes for our 67 coupe in the next few days. I've looked at a number of websites showing the procedure yet I still have a few questions.

[ol][*]What size holes should be drilled for the spot welds?[*]How far apart should the spot welds be?[*]Has anyone done a solid weld around the entire floor after spot welding for additional strength? I was asked this questions and didn't know. Would it be worthwhile running a full weld or just seam seal it after the spot welds?[*]The passengers front frame rail has come up through the missing floor about 3/8" since the floor has completely rusted away. The rail is straight just tipped up slightly. Whats the best way to correct this before doing the floor pans?[*]I'll be adding sub-frame connectors and was wondering if these should be done before or after the floors?[*]I'm guessing that because of the weakness due to the rusted floors that we should not put it on a rotisserie until after the floors or repaired correct? Once the floors are done we can pop it up on a rotisserie for media blasting.
[/ol]I'll be doing the welding myself with my father and have a professional who will be coming by to give me a few lessons and pointers. I could have him do it pretty cheap however I want to do as much work on the car as I can myself.

Any other pointers you all may have would be great! Thanks.
I take it you're already done, but if not, let me know and I can let you know what I learned from doing full floor pans on both sides for my 65 . . .
Old Sep 16, 2008 | 01:28 PM
  #3  
zmetalmilitia's Avatar
zmetalmilitia
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From: Colorado
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I don't think there is a "standard" for spacing of spot welds, etc. Some say don not run an entire weld around the item you are welding, that may weaken the area. Other's say, weld it all, it'll make it stronger. I spot welded mine and then ran a seam weld where the floor pan joined the tunnel and likewise for other pieces like the torque boxes, toeboards, etc. Each application may differ from car to car. Your frame rails, by being angled up 3/8" or so will take a little man-handling to get those back down, but your not talking a lot of moving. It's probably just the floor supports that have moved up, not the actual frame rails. Apply some heat and bang them down or whatever works for you. I would not put it on a rotisserie until the floor pans are in. Remember, these are unibody cars and rely upon the entire floor for stability and strength. You risk twisting the car if you start rotating it with out the structual intact.
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