I think it was actually less than a year ago. But, I think they had talked about it a couple of years ago

 

Okay so if I dont feel like running synthetic which 10-40w oil would be the best?

-Gun

 

For Synthetic there's Mobil 1 15-50(I think that one is synthetic) Valvoline makes some synthetic racing oils, you can get them in like 10-30 and varrying other grades, and Redline as well. Redline's oil's are not API certified now because they chose not to remove the ZDDP to meet the GF-4 spec. My question is why on earth is the API choosing to certify oils and put their stamp on it that are no longer adequate? They used to require a high standard for oils, but now it seems even they have bent to the will of the EPA, and began putting their seal on oil of questionable integrity. And with the hard push towards tighter and tighter emissions they're going to continue to remove more of the friction modifiers from oil that are seen as harmful to emissions devices. More cars are going to start having more problems if they continue to run API certified oils if this keeps up. It's already gotten to where trying to run flat tappet cammed engines is almost an adventure unto itself.

 

It's not actually a friction modifier. ZDDP is an anti-scuff additive that reacts with metal surfaces to form a scuff-resistant barrier in the chance that you end up with direct metal-to-metal contact. This is extremely important in flat-tappet cam engines, but not so important roller motors or newer motors in generalwhich have much tighter tolerances. It is bad for the environment and it does degrade cats, which is a big deal. The fact is, you need to run API certified oil in newer vehicles, and they're generally adequate for the job.API certificationdoes have a purpose, it's just that that purpose is not to make us classic guys happy.

Gun Jam, Valvoline's VR-1 isn't synthetic, and therefore isn't as pricey as the Mobil 1 or Redline.

 

Theres a silver lining to every situation. I guessthis one is itsa pefect opportunity to go with that 347 crank

 

so can anyone confirm or deny whats up with rotella? is it still zinc laden[8D]

pennzoil deiseland mobil delvac are other oils worth considering if they have zinc still too. we need to get to the bottom of this [:@]

 

2007 and later trucks are not "zinc tolerant" due to the particulate traps/cats that was mandated on 07 and later trucks.

So, sinceretailers only want to stock one oil, goodbye zinc.......... At least this is the reason given for no more zinc...

 

Even new engines running API certified oil are having problems. There was a reason they had ZDDP in oils to begin with. And Amsoil has done testing that has proven that high zinc/phosphate oils don't pollute the environment or ruin cats if they have low volitility. They may have a higher level of ZDDP but they burn off less, so you produce less pollution in the long run than if you use a low phasphate oil that burns off a lot due to higher volitility.

Delo has reduced a lot of the ZDDP in them, and Rotella is fixing to remove it as well. Even the diesel oils are starting to get the shaft, and builders no longer reccomend the use of Delo or Rotella. [:@]

I might put a 347 crank in later, but the problem is the last dude that built an engine with this block had a piston in too tight, and it scuffed the bottom of the bore, so a 3.4" stroke might put the ring pack into a gouge in the cylinder wall. If I can get away with it I might put a 347, or maybe even a 331 crank in it.

 

This is what im having to do. I put a new cam in and it went bad in 5 miles. The metal shavings from it absolutly ruined my crank, so Next Monday I am ordering my Eagle 374 kit. I really wish I KNEW of the correct oil to use in it now b/c I cant sfford for this to happen again, especially since I'm about to spend 1000 bucks on a rotating assembly. Several people have told me to run Rotella 15W-40, but I'm not sure if it still has the Zinc or not, can anybody fill me in on this for sure?

 

Spend the extra $$$ and get the roller cam conversion kit. You have already screwed one cam, don't riskyour new crank assembly.Besides, you can get a more agressivecam profile (which you need to replace anyway) win win situation, apart from the $$$.
I know roller is the only way Im going from now on.