Intake Issue
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 311
From:
Intake Issue
I have had to remove my intake and re-seal it twice now... currently it is leaking out the front and the rear. MY question is do you guys use the cork gaskets for the front and the rear or no? I think I have heard people say not to use them because the leak easily.
should I just use an extra thick bead of Silicon?
should I just use an extra thick bead of Silicon?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
RE: Intake Issue
i never mounted an intaker manifold, but in my time here I read about 400 posts that say to NOT use the cork.
they will leak.
see here with detailed instructions:
https://mustangforums.com/m_3216731/tm.htm
they will leak.
see here with detailed instructions:
https://mustangforums.com/m_3216731/tm.htm
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
From: Southeast, MI
RE: Intake Issue
I have always use silicone sealer on the front and rear seals with the cork gasket....installed/reinstalled intake about 4 times in last 15 yrs and had only one leak with this process (the very first time when I was inpatient and didn't let the sealer cure properly).
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
RE: Intake Issue
Yeah, chuck the cork gaskets. They have a tendancy to slide out of place, and after a while they may start to seep anyway. I've always used a 1/4" bead of The Right Stuff RTV silicone on the front and back, with a bit more dabbed at the corners, and a thin smear around the water passages. Never had any leak issues.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,007
From: Citrus County, FL
RE: Intake Issue
i use a thick (1/4 - 3/8) bead of permatex across the front and back, i make sure there is a dab under the intake gaskets in the corners, and i spread a very thin layer around the water ports on each side of the gaskets. also, i use weatherstripping adhesive in a few spots in the center of the gasket because it tacks up very quickly and keeps the gasket from sliding around.
i have yet to install an intake that leaked in any way shape or form.
btw, ultra black permatex ftw
i have yet to install an intake that leaked in any way shape or form.
btw, ultra black permatex ftw
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,483
From: Fontana, California
RE: Intake Issue
ORIGINAL: my77stang
i use a thick (1/4 - 3/8) bead of permatex across the front and back, i make sure there is a dab under the intake gaskets in the corners, and i spread a very thin layer around the water ports on each side of the gaskets. also, i use weatherstripping adhesive in a few spots in the center of the gasket because it tacks up very quickly and keeps the gasket from sliding around.
i have yet to install an intake that leaked in any way shape or form.
btw, ultra black permatex ftw
i use a thick (1/4 - 3/8) bead of permatex across the front and back, i make sure there is a dab under the intake gaskets in the corners, and i spread a very thin layer around the water ports on each side of the gaskets. also, i use weatherstripping adhesive in a few spots in the center of the gasket because it tacks up very quickly and keeps the gasket from sliding around.
i have yet to install an intake that leaked in any way shape or form.
btw, ultra black permatex ftw
Another tip: make sure its nice and clean before you put new gaskets down, the time spent on the end of a wire wheel is well worth the results. I also use laquer thinner to clean the metal before the gasket adhesive goes on it.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,692
From: Houston, Texas
RE: Intake Issue
Another tip is to cut the heads off some longer bolts (not the ones you're using) to use as a guide setting the manifold in place. You can either slot the end so you can use a screwdriver to remove them, or I would just use some vice grips to work it out once the manifold is in place. This works especially well with cast iron stock manifolds.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,007
From: Citrus County, FL
RE: Intake Issue
^ +1 that works, or you can use studs and washers/nuts to hold the intake down instead of bolts.
personally i use carb cleaner as a prep agent. i know some people say it leaves a residue behind but if you buy the cheap stuff from walmart for 1.24 a can it doesnt leave the residue that the "better" carb cleaners do. IMO its the best carb cleaner you can buy.
personally i use carb cleaner as a prep agent. i know some people say it leaves a residue behind but if you buy the cheap stuff from walmart for 1.24 a can it doesnt leave the residue that the "better" carb cleaners do. IMO its the best carb cleaner you can buy.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
RE: Intake Issue
+1
Also, some of the Fel Pro intake gaskets already have the sealant beads in them, so there's no need to put any rtv etc around water jacket ports if you use those gaskets. Like these....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku
The blue beads around all the ports in the picture is the sealant built in to the gasket.
Also, some of the Fel Pro intake gaskets already have the sealant beads in them, so there's no need to put any rtv etc around water jacket ports if you use those gaskets. Like these....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku
The blue beads around all the ports in the picture is the sealant built in to the gasket.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
RE: Intake Issue
ORIGINAL: my77stang
personally i use carb cleaner as a prep agent. i know some people say it leaves a residue behind but if you buy the cheap stuff from walmart for 1.24 a can it doesnt leave the residue that the "better" carb cleaners do. IMO its the best carb cleaner you can buy.
personally i use carb cleaner as a prep agent. i know some people say it leaves a residue behind but if you buy the cheap stuff from walmart for 1.24 a can it doesnt leave the residue that the "better" carb cleaners do. IMO its the best carb cleaner you can buy.