While my car is under the knife i was thinking about what kind of materials i need to paint it. Most of my car is all aftermarket EDP coated i was going to sand that all off with 80 grit paper. Then i i plan on glazing the whole car with body filler. what kind im not sure yet? After several rattle can guide coats and blocking it all out, once the panels are straight body filler blocked with 180grit
Then i can lay down a primer surfacer to fill in the 180grit scratches? Then i block it out and use as many guide coats til im satisfied lets say with 350 to 400 grit sandpaper? then a sealer then basecoat then clear coat?
Does that process sound about right to you?

 

Im no professional but I have painted a few cars. I wonder why you would "off" the EPD coating? I would use a good degreaser cleaner and scuff it up with a scotchbrite then use a good two part primer. After it dries I scuff it up with 180 then put on two full coats of primer surfacer. Then the block sanding begins. If you use two different colors of primers you can tell when you are about to sand through the bottom primer. Use several lengths of blocks for your sanding. Long blocks on the longer panels and short ones for the smaller areas. I have several flexible sanding blocks also. Anyway after I block it really good cutting most of the last coat off I shoot one more good coat of surfacer on and then a guide coat. Block again until there aren't any low spots left. Blocking doesn't go fast and shouldn't be hurried. I have spent a week blocking a car before final painting. After i'm satisfied that it's straight I use a colored primer/sealer. You do not sand this. The I apply the first coat not worrying about covering the primer. You want to cover by the second coat. I apply a total of four coats of color usually dependng on the color i'm shooting then after it flashes I apply one light thentwo full wet coats of clear. When that sets up I wetsand with 1000, 1500 then 2000. Buff carefully then you have a mirror finish. I might be doing extra but I like a clean smooth paint job on my cars. This is totally my opinion and i'm sure others have their own style so listen to the ideas and do your own thing, it's your car not ours. Good Luck!

 

I do this for my living. You do not have to remove the e-coat. It serves the same purpose as the old red oxide primer on oem parts. I would however treat both sides of the panel. I like to do the inside of my panels with rustoleum gloss black. If it is near a rust repair I will use the rusty metal primer when I am done with the repair. I pour it in the doors and let it run out for a couple of days. You can rough up the edp with 180 and put a metal glaze right overtop. If you are planning on priming the new parts I would start 220 then prime then block with 180till metal starts to poke thru then prime and repeat then final prime and block with 400. then seal and color same as 68 goldstang. When it comes to clear if I am going for a mirror finish I will lay down four coats of clear. I will remove close to two coats in the wetsanding process. This gaurantees that I enough clear and wont burn thru when buffing. Again this is how I do it, ask ten people get the same amount of variations on how to do this. As long as you are sanding everything properly during this there is no real wrong way. Take a little from everyone and due what suits your needs and enviroment best. Good luck

 

X2 for what 68goldstang said.

EPD is on the parts for a reason. If you wanted to take it off you would not need 80 grit and if you glazed the whole car it will be alot of work to make it straight. If you want the perfect paint job, it is ALL in the Preparation.

 

Hey jaw66, what type of gun do you recommend? siphon or gravity? I bought a cheap gravity and it says to use 50-70 psi. that sounds high

 

Your HVLP gun will lower the pressure at the cap when the trigger is pulled. If it recommends 50-70 make sure and use a good regulator at the gun not the compressor. You lose air pressure the longer the hose. There is a good site on the net about paint questions and painting in general. You can google "Dr Gun" or just go to the Sharpe web site. Sharpe1 dotcom of course

 

gravity for the win. if you gonna be actually spraying just primer then a cheapo will do just fine you really need to follow the guidelines on the tech sheets that come with the primer, paint etc also depends if its a type gun hvlp or standard for example.


but like state above unless the parts are rusting id leave the edp in place. if you feel you must strip them i would stip them with 180 then epoxy prime then wipe the low spots then 2k etc and i definitely finish with 800grit instead of 400 before the sealer