Roll-cage
I don't know of too many guys on here that do have one... Emperor of Chicken has one, but he mostly hangs out in the S197 section after his daddy bought him that Shelby or whatever, and its really too bad cuz he had some cool comments and was a nice kid. You could maybe send him a PM or something.
ORIGINAL: superdavid
I don't know of too many guys on here that do have one... Emperor of Chicken has one, but he mostly hangs out in the S197 section after his daddy bought him that Shelby or whatever, and its really too bad cuz he had some cool comments and was a nice kid. You could maybe send him a PM or something.
I don't know of too many guys on here that do have one... Emperor of Chicken has one, but he mostly hangs out in the S197 section after his daddy bought him that Shelby or whatever, and its really too bad cuz he had some cool comments and was a nice kid. You could maybe send him a PM or something.
Yeah, where ever you plan to race is going to have cage requirements, such and such material of so and so thickness etc. A good chromemoly cage would be nice, our old cars crumple like a soda can in a collision.
In a '66 FB, but it should give you some ideas....
The main hoop should be welded onto the tops of the rear torque boxes. My car doesn't have rear torque boxes (removed in favor of a one piece boxed frame and coilover rear suspension), but this should give you an idea of how the main hoop will look in the car.

After the main hoop is placed in the car and tacked in, determine where/how you want your rear braces to connect. They can extend rearward at a 45 degree angle (thus voiding the backseat area from passengers) or they can extend rearward along the roofline and then angle down through the package tray following the lines of the rear glass. Once through the package tray, the rear bars will weld into the rear frame rails under the trunk floors skin.
Here is the same '66 with a "rear seat delete" option.

You can stop here and have a nice 4 point bar... or you can extend bars forward from the main hoop to tie into the front torque box area. The possibilities and designs are many. Some choose to extend bars forward along the door openings roofline and then downward hugging the dash and kick panels. The bars on each side of the car would then tie together along the front (following the top edge of the windshield).
Since my '66 has a one piece frame and is inherently stronger than any original unibody Mustang, Idecided instead to take an easier route and just install some swing out, removable side door bars. The side bars are hingedat the bottom and pinned at the top. If you don't feel like sliding your butt over them, you can pull the pin and swing the bar out with the door. Or you can just remove the bars entirely if you're not anticipating any "hard driving".
Here's some pics....


With the price of steel being what it is, it's hard to beat the pricing of somethese kits... see attached link....http://www.swracecars.com/shopdispla...%26+Roll+Cages
And one other thing.... a cross bar welded onto the main hoop is a great spot to mount shoulder harnesses. However, you cannot in good conscience allow any passengers to ride in the rear seat while you have a cross bar installed. A cross bar and rear seat passenger is assuredly setting yourself up fornegligent homicide liability in the event of even the smallest of accidents (the steel crossbar will not move when the rear seat passengers head hits it).
Good Luck,
Dave
The main hoop should be welded onto the tops of the rear torque boxes. My car doesn't have rear torque boxes (removed in favor of a one piece boxed frame and coilover rear suspension), but this should give you an idea of how the main hoop will look in the car.

After the main hoop is placed in the car and tacked in, determine where/how you want your rear braces to connect. They can extend rearward at a 45 degree angle (thus voiding the backseat area from passengers) or they can extend rearward along the roofline and then angle down through the package tray following the lines of the rear glass. Once through the package tray, the rear bars will weld into the rear frame rails under the trunk floors skin.
Here is the same '66 with a "rear seat delete" option.

You can stop here and have a nice 4 point bar... or you can extend bars forward from the main hoop to tie into the front torque box area. The possibilities and designs are many. Some choose to extend bars forward along the door openings roofline and then downward hugging the dash and kick panels. The bars on each side of the car would then tie together along the front (following the top edge of the windshield).
Since my '66 has a one piece frame and is inherently stronger than any original unibody Mustang, Idecided instead to take an easier route and just install some swing out, removable side door bars. The side bars are hingedat the bottom and pinned at the top. If you don't feel like sliding your butt over them, you can pull the pin and swing the bar out with the door. Or you can just remove the bars entirely if you're not anticipating any "hard driving".
Here's some pics....


With the price of steel being what it is, it's hard to beat the pricing of somethese kits... see attached link....http://www.swracecars.com/shopdispla...%26+Roll+Cages
And one other thing.... a cross bar welded onto the main hoop is a great spot to mount shoulder harnesses. However, you cannot in good conscience allow any passengers to ride in the rear seat while you have a cross bar installed. A cross bar and rear seat passenger is assuredly setting yourself up fornegligent homicide liability in the event of even the smallest of accidents (the steel crossbar will not move when the rear seat passengers head hits it).
Good Luck,
Dave
Unless you are planning on running in the 9s, all you need is a roll bar. If you do go with a roll cage, I would definitly check with the sanctioning body about requirements. They are all different and you have to have it certified by them anyways.


