Hello, I have decided that the cheapest and most economical way to run a roller cam is to just get a later model block. I don't want to type my whole situation again, so if you want to know whats going on then just read the post entitled "I just wanna cry... or beat the **** out of something." I know several people have offered to help me out, and I really appreciate it all a lot. If somebody can help me here it would be awesome. I need a late model 302 roller block. I do not need the heads, cam, or bottom end (crank, rods, pistons) but the lifters and spider assembly would be nice to have. If there is anybody resonably close to Chattanooga that has one and can donate or give me a cheap price on this it would be very helpful.

Just a note, if somebody wants to trade, I Do have my current 72 block. It is in really good shape, nice and clean, and bored .060, but the bore is in really good shape with no wear ridges at all.

 

Hate to tell ya, but keep the '72. You will be VERY hard pressed to find any late model block that can go .060 without hot/thin spots. Your skating on thin ice @ .040 with most of them.
Will it really be cheaper ? Machine a new block if it can go that far, then re-assemble it again. That cost money even if you can do it yourself. Don't wanna rain on your parade at all. But just some friendly advice.

 

>> Hello, I have decided that the cheapest and most economical way to run a roller cam is to just get a later model block. <<

Well, I think you've done your math wrong. Compare the parts you need to buy for a late model block and the parts you need to convert your '72 block. Here'sthe "extra" parts you need to do the conversion: . That's right, nothing extra. For both blocks you'll need a spider, two bolts, 16 roller lifters, 8 dog bones, one cam,one distributer gear, and 16 push rods. The parts are a tad differantfrom one to the other, but you still have to buy the parts.

There are two extra machine steps to convert your '72 block - both can be done with hand tools. 1. drill two holes to retain the spider. 2. Flatten one or two of the lifter bosses for the dog bones.

That's it. That's the whole conversion. The only advantage to the late model block is that the two machining steps are already done, and you don't need a reduced base circle cam. The disadvantage is that you're never going to find a roller block that's as good as what you already have.

 

Stick a conversion cam in it, it'll be cheaper than getting a late model block to work with what you already have.

 

So you all are telling me that I wont have to get a reduced base circle cam to use my current block??? I read an article that said you did. I want to run a Z303 cam, but Im not sure that it will work with my block. I want to use it because it is a high performance cam and has the same price as my current cam, and since my current one is under warranty, I can exchange them at no cost. As for the pushrods, I can do the same with them. I am going to have to change the cam bearings again, so I can put in late model bearings if I need to. I know I need to change the distributor gear to steel or bronze, but that will be easy since I have an MSD pro-billet distributor. I am just concerned about the whole small base circle thing. I called comp, and they can grind me one for $312, but thats $100 more than what I can get from the warranty of the old cam. I don't mind drilling and tapping into my block, since is is all apart anyway, it wont matter. However, I know that I must drill above the #2 and #4 cam bearings. Since I am getting them replaced, would it be ok to drill all the way through and then when they get replaced it would cover up the hole??? The whole cam thing is what really bothers me, I mean if that won't be a problem, then I would be so happy b/c then I would keep my current block and just use it with the roller cam.

 

So nevermind about that last post, I reread everything and I see that I do indeed need a reduced base circle cam. Any suggestions on a part number??????????? It needs to have a lift of at least .541 but no more than .575, and the higher the duration the better. Also, I don't want much lobe seperation. It is carbed (being a 72, duh, lol) and I want the muscle car sound.

One othe quick question, can I not just use a factory set of lifters, spider, and dog bones? If not, then it will be more expensive b/c the retro fit lifters are freaking expensive!!!! I can get these parts used for $50 so if the factory parts can be transfered to my block, then heck yeah!!! I would definately go this route. BUt first and foremost, I need to decide on a cam before I make any final desicions.

 

Which ever you decide, let us know before you buy parts. Some stuff we may be able to help out on the price a good bit, and some not. Just drop a line.

 

Well, I guess I am just going to keep my current block if a late model block will not accept a .060 over bore safely. I just need to know what to get to do the conversion.

 

One note on the distributor gear. Have a machine shop remove and replace the gear. The gear just doesn't come off when you remove the pin. I think they heat those puppies red hot and press them on. It seems like it would be an easy task but it is not. There are also clearances you need to be concerned about. MSD's tech pages have the neccessary clearances to go by. This is very important as you will screw the distributor gear and possible the cam gear up sending shavings into your oiling system. I definately don't want to read that post[8D].

I can't really help you with the roller conversion as I have never done one. Mine came as a roller so that was one less step for me. You definately want to go roller though. Less wear and tear (friction) and more HP!
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Sound familiar?
http://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3821

I recommend this. Send it sooner than later so you'll have it when the engine is done.
http://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=
7294&highlight=gear+height

Here is what I was speaking of. I mis spoke and said clearance, it is "height" of the gear.
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/gear_install_ford.pdf

Do a search on the MSD board and do a search for "steel gear". You will read some interesting stories. Makes you think about how a small mistake can ruin your engine. I recommend sending the distributor to MSD or taking it to a competent machine shop that is capable of replacing the gear and knows the gear height. Hope this helped. Didn't mean to worry you any more than you already are but you need to consider these things.
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