Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

motor update

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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #1  
ky's Avatar
ky
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America ftw
 
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: ca
Default motor update

im just about done finally. all i need is a distributor, carb, fuel pump, and misc bolts and crap.

(heads and intake are just mock-up right now. head bolts are on their way)







question. should i let my motor sit after the dyno session and have the car painted before i drop the motor or should i get my tranny/wiring/motor in the car before paint? i dont want ANY over spray or dust on the motor cause i spent a lot of money and time into making it look good but i dont want my new paint to accidently get scratched when i drop the motor. which way should i do it?
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 06:53 PM
  #2  
rmodel65's Avatar
rmodel65
Yukon Cornelius
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,812
From: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Default RE: motor update

remove the front fenders etc before installing the motor
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 07:13 PM
  #3  
BAY68_347's Avatar
BAY68_347
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 356
From: saffranciscobayarea
Default RE: motor update

DAMN that is looking good. I cant wait to hear how it sounds when you fire it up for the first time. Goes without saying, you gotta vid it. Cheers!
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:12 PM
  #4  
ky's Avatar
ky
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America ftw
 
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: ca
Default RE: motor update

yeah i cant wait to hear it either. although its not a big cam, just a small one but itll still rumble a little. ill video the dyno session, hopefully my little 8mp camera can take it [&:].

i love the intake though. best part is itll never fade or discolor .

rmodel, so youre saying i should have it painted first?
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #5  
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Adrenolin
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Default RE: motor update

Yeah I'd have it painted first. Then remove the fenders with the hood before motor / trany installation.

Looks sweet! Which heads are those? I was looking at the EDL-603219 heads tonight from Summit. Same as yours? I've got the Edelbrock Performer intake, 600 electric carb and matched cam though I may take the cam up a notch.

After watching what happened with old reused bolts doing my fathers AMC 360 I've also decided to buy a new engine bolt kit like this one. Anyone use these before? 228 piece Stainless steel set and only 45.00 bucks shipped.
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:41 PM
  #6  
ky's Avatar
ky
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America ftw
 
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: ca
Default RE: motor update

adrenolin, the part number for my heads are edl-60229. they are the performer rpm heads. wierd thing is, the rpms are cheaper than the plain performers. $40 per head cheaper. i got mine including tax and shipping for $1,142.75. and my intake is the performer rpm that i got powder coated clear for $100.
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:59 PM
  #7  
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Adrenolin
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Default RE: motor update

Hmm the linked Performer heads above are only 797.39. Ahh I see the differences.. the RPM heads you have are the 'natural' finish where the ones I was looking at were 'polished'. I also noted that the exhaust port shape on the RPMs are Rectangular but square on the Performer that I was looking at. Not sure which I'll need just now.

+1 on the clear powder coating! The upgraded Edelbrock stuff came with the car when I got it. All about 1.5 years old and maybe 20 miles usage.. not even broken in yet. When I strip it down I'll be having the same thing done with the clear after I clean them up. I'd like to do the carb also but not sure I want to risk getting any crap inside it. I know the guy doing the powder coating and its pretty much paying him just for materials used so pretty cheap. He's going to do a few things in a deep bright purple also which I'll have color matched for matching engine block paint as well.
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 11:33 PM
  #8  
ky's Avatar
ky
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America ftw
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,261
From: ca
Default RE: motor update

heres what i got

i LOVE the natural aluminum finish. kinda why i got em cause otherwise i coulda ported my iron heads and they have a bigger chamber so i wouldnt have to worry about to high of compression. but with the small valve heads i got i didnt have to cut my pistons (LUCKILY they ptv was enoguh cause i had built my shortblock before i decided to go with alum heads ). the heads in the link are the small valve fyi. im not sure what youre planning on doing so just be careful and read and reread before you order the parts .
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