lol @ the people who asked if it was a W or C. no hard feelings though.

nice looking engine btw.

 

Thank you all for the compliments. I wish I had the funds to dress up the accessories, but I did not budget $2k for March Performance stuff or chrome pumps etc. I guess my philosophy has been chorme does not make horsepower. I can always go back for that a little later.

 

Nice. Should be fun once its in and running. You've gotta be stroked for the weekend! Good luck with the install.

 

[sm=jawdrop.gif]Urb that thing is going to go like the hammers of hell. what's your rear gearing?

 

I'm not sure the difference on all the Hurst shifters, many of them seem similar. Prolly just minor differences, but as long as you have a good one with positive stops and a solid shift feel is all that matters. And with the tires and CE Sliders it should hook like mad. The guy who does my machining has a 69 Camaro with basically the same setup, CE's, leaf springs and MT slicks. Ran 8's with a small block launching on the bottle.

And I've noticed lately that the C mains on blocks and even cranks is starting to become a lot more common, as well as the 2.100" SBC conrod setup for 302 strokers. A lot of the 5.4 rods for 347s etc now and the cranks are setup to run the 2.100" setup, like what I have in my 302(only mine required machining since no one makes a 302 crank with SBC crankpins unless it's custom).

 

True about the mains. The Dart Sportsman has three verions. The 351 block comes with Cleveland mains and either a 9.5 "Windsor" or a 9.2 "Cleveland" deck. The 302 blockhas 302 mains with the shorter 302 deck. It is basically a 302 from hell. You could easily turn it into a circle track motor capable of 8-9K.

I am excited about the Hurst. I had a Hurst handle before but never have owned a Hurst shifter. I am moving reverse up by first mostly so my shift pattern will be right (the Hurst pattern is not the stock location).

The rearend ratio is a 3.55. I turn about 3200 at 70. I am not at the work PC so I am not sure what speed redline would hit in fourth...assuming I can get it that high. Let just say I will need the GPS to tell what top end is cuz the dash cuts out at 120. I have thought about changing out the rear end for something a little lower geared. Maybe a 4.10 or 3.73. My plan is not high speed cuz honestly these old gals do not handleit very well. 140-150mph is plentyfor me to play with. I am much more into accerlation. The problem is I drive on the highway with it quite a bit so gas mileage is a small factor. I know. Started not to mention it, but the difference between 8 and 10 mpg is bigwhen you have to stop every 100 miles for a fill up. I drive places that do not have a gas station but every 70 miles!

I am pumped about the weekend, but it will not run for a little while. I have a complete Barry Grant fuel system to put into feed that 750 double pumper. Don't want to run lean with the new parts! I also need to finish out the subframe connectors so I do not bend her up when I start working over the engine.

8s on a bottle is WAY more than I need. I am fighting my racing buddies about speed in this thing. I am not pumped about putting in a roll bar or cage. In fact, I won't do it. I want it to look stock and orginal until you pop the hood. It would be fun though to smoke the old retired corvette and camero guys that come into town every weekend. I think this motor will do it, but a nice shot would be a kick too! I would also love to buy a plain fastback and cut it up for a kick ars bracket car, but I will wait until the aftermarket bodies and tube frame stuff catches up and go that route. There is not reason to cut up a classic when you can cut up a new old clone. When you start getting much faster than 11.99, you have to start putting ininvasive stuff to be safe.

Question: I have been seeing a lot about oils on the forums. Since this is basically a race motor, my gut is tellingme to run a 40 or 50 weight racing oil with zinc in it. Eventhough I do not need it for a flat cam, I tend togo with the racer's opinions on these things. The guys around herelike Valvoline racing oil mostly cuz the local parts stores carry it. Have any you guys done research on brands for zinc in solid weight oils? Any suggestions? Maybe Lucas, Amsoil, Royal Purple,... I am thinking dyno oil at first cuz going to change the oil every 1500 or so for a while. Texas gets hot, so most performance guys stay away from multi weights around here.

 

Tough crowd around here lately.
When you haven't had the opportunity to work on many engines... you might not know the difference.
It used to be okay to ask questions in the forum.
[&:]


And to those who are still trying to keep this site a place to learn, THANK YOU!

'preciate it!!

 

easy way to tell is w= 6 valve cover bolts 8= cleve


also another quick id is that the w uses a bolt on timing cover the cleve has a cast in cover that uses a front plate

 

I'm running Valvoline VR1, still has high levels of zinc and phosphorus(I'm running it now AFTER my thrust bearing died[:@]). A higher performance engine with looser tolerances that makes more heat is prolly better off with a heavier oil too, I'm running 20-50 in mine. And at 11.49 or faster, you need a roll bar in a Coupe, so if you don't want one don't run faster than 11.50

 

Yeah driving in the middle of no where sucks when you break down or run out of gas.Try carrying a 10 gallon can with you.I kinda thought you spent some money on that engine but its well worth it and money well spent.Any thoughts on a pan hard bar or watts link for it?