degreeing camshaft?
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 97
From: Texas
degreeing camshaft?
Hey Guys
I'm rebuilding a 302 with new everything. Is it necessary to degree the camshaft? I know it's probably a good idea but just wondering if necessary. This is going to be for street use no hot rodding.
thanks
Johnny
I'm rebuilding a 302 with new everything. Is it necessary to degree the camshaft? I know it's probably a good idea but just wondering if necessary. This is going to be for street use no hot rodding.
thanks
Johnny
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,100
From: Texas Hill Country
RE: degreeing camshaft?
Regardless of application, you should degree the cam. There are many philosophies on this but we checked the intake and exhaust centerlines and split the difference so that the centerline on the exhaust and intake are equal distance from the advertised centerline. All cams, or I should say many cams, are not exactly as they are advertised. You may be plus or minus a few degrees on the events so your centerlines are going to off. If you just check the intake, you are going to sacrifice exhaust performance. This is why you split.
Again, regardless of how many horsepower you are putting in, you need to do this. There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it to get it the the best centerline possible.
Again, regardless of how many horsepower you are putting in, you need to do this. There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it to get it the the best centerline possible.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 138
From: Oklahoma
RE: degreeing camshaft?
ORIGINAL: urban_cowboy
Regardless of application, you should degree the cam. There are many philosophies on this but we checked the intake and exhaust centerlines and split the difference so that the centerline on the exhaust and intake are equal distance from the advertised centerline. All cams, or I should say many cams, are not exactly as they are advertised. You may be plus or minus a few degrees on the events so your centerlines are going to off. If you just check the intake, you are going to sacrifice exhaust performance. This is why you split.
Again, regardless of how many horsepower you are putting in, you need to do this. There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it to get it the the best centerline possible.
Regardless of application, you should degree the cam. There are many philosophies on this but we checked the intake and exhaust centerlines and split the difference so that the centerline on the exhaust and intake are equal distance from the advertised centerline. All cams, or I should say many cams, are not exactly as they are advertised. You may be plus or minus a few degrees on the events so your centerlines are going to off. If you just check the intake, you are going to sacrifice exhaust performance. This is why you split.
Again, regardless of how many horsepower you are putting in, you need to do this. There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it to get it the the best centerline possible.
huh??????????
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
RE: degreeing camshaft?
Advancing/retarding shouldn't be necessary on most setups for the street. On race apps though it's helpful to tune for a particular power band. Regardless, you should always degree because the lobes could be ground slightly off from alignment, or the dowl pin hole could be in the wrong spot, or the timing marks could be wrong etc. It's unlikely you'll get a cam/gear that will be off, but you should always check anyway just in case.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 68
RE: degreeing camshaft?
Most of the time especially in a block that isnt new and cnc machined like a racing block you want to degree your cam on atleast 3 cylinders, I do 1, 6, 4 cylinders. The reason is that because of the heat and wear cycles the block goes thru, your lifter bores may be slightly off line etc causing lifter bind and uneven camshaft readings. Remember your cam shouldnt be off on any of the lobes so more than likely its your block when you see it. As far as adjustment its always worth it to invest in a roller timing chain especially since they can be had for like 80 bucks for a cloyes, comp, ford racing, or crane. Just make sure you can fit a .030 or so feeler gauge between it and the block or else it might grind on the block.