oil sending unit problem
the oil sending unit extension broke off in the block. i drilled out the broken off piece in the block to 1/8th npt 27 and also drilled out the extension the same then coupled them together. i afraid if i try to drill out the block that ill end off center and end up with a real mess so the 1/8th npt seemed safe. now im thinking that the weight of the sending unit at the end might end up breaking it off. is there any suggestions on this problem. is thee another place i can mount the sending unit. im thinking about just plugging it off.
The stock Ford part is aluminum. I'v seen more than one break over the years. I won't use them any more.
There is no other place to easilytap in for oil pressure. So you need to get the old pieces out, and replace it with something else. I usually just make one of parts from the NAPA fittings bin. A short piece of steel pipe and some brass fittings.
I made something like this for my '66 Mustang about 15 years ago. Still working just fine.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...lSenderOld.jpg
There is no other place to easilytap in for oil pressure. So you need to get the old pieces out, and replace it with something else. I usually just make one of parts from the NAPA fittings bin. A short piece of steel pipe and some brass fittings.
I made something like this for my '66 Mustang about 15 years ago. Still working just fine.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...lSenderOld.jpg
then for sure it is in the cast iron block. in that case i should be able to keep going up on my drill sizes without hurting anything. after all the aluminum is a lot softer than the block its stuck in. looks like you had fun making up your fittings. looks good to me.
yes i tried. the way most repairs go for me is, well think of the hardest way its going to be to fix and thats more often than not the way it is. im lucky that i was able to remove the fuel pump and oil filter and get a angle drill in there. im just curious what size coupler i need to join the extension to the block without worrying about it breaking off.
I believe the hole in the block is a 1/8" NPT.
The T fitting was there because that's what I had in my spare parts bucket. Then I needed to make room for a crank case vacuum pump, so I added the 45* fitting. Again, I happened to have it in my spare parts bucket. Red Neck Engineering at it's best.
On my track car, I mounted the sender to the frame of the car with a bracket I made. I connected it to the engine with -4 braided line. That car sees a lot more vibration than my street Mustang. I didn't want to worry about it breaking.
The T fitting was there because that's what I had in my spare parts bucket. Then I needed to make room for a crank case vacuum pump, so I added the 45* fitting. Again, I happened to have it in my spare parts bucket. Red Neck Engineering at it's best.
On my track car, I mounted the sender to the frame of the car with a bracket I made. I connected it to the engine with -4 braided line. That car sees a lot more vibration than my street Mustang. I didn't want to worry about it breaking.
thats what i figured from looking at it. thats basically what i ended up with. i drilled out the broken off piece in the block and also drilled out the extension to each accept a 1/8 npt27 coupler. just wondered if id have to worry about it snapping off down the road.
i think the hole in the block is 1/4 x 18 NPT tap, i know its bigger than 1/8 npt 27 and its a 18 thread count, the closet drill i have to it is a 1/2 18 but thats loose, so im figuring its got to be 1/4 x18 npt.
well i ended up drilling the broken off piece out, tried a easy out but with the piece being aluminum all it did was make the hole larger. figured that would happen seeing as it was original and had been in there for 28 years. i ordered a new one and see the new one is steel, not aluminum like my old one. what a pain but its done.
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