Hmmm. Maybe I need to have a shop do it.

I have no idea what your talking about with the clearances. Or is that easy to do stuff?

 

Like TripleHmotosports said, the Cam bearings require a special driver to install. Have the shop that is boring your block install the cam bearings. You will also need plastigauge for checking the bearing clearances, a set of feeler gauges for checking piston clearance, thrust bearing clearance, and for checking ring end gaps. I personally use a dial indicator to check the thrust bearing, but a feeler gauge can be used too. I also use the dial indicator to find exact TDC and check the markings on the damper. You don't mention the rods and pistons, but you should probably have them installed by the shop although I have installed them using a press. Mentioned before is the degree wheel for setting up the cam. I use one on every engine I have built. Years ago I got a cam gear for a SBC that was manufactured wrong and would have retarded the cam timing a little. Still would have run, and never would have caused a problem, but would have sacrificed a few ponies. They don't cost that much and you will learn something about your engine if you use one.

 

Plastigauge is easy. It is a waxy thread like stuff that you put a strip on the bearing journal. You then put the bearing shell on and torque it and then remove it. The plastigauge gets flattened and the package has a scale you compare the flattened width to which tells you your bearing clearance.

 

I guess I will do it. I bought a Haynes engine books a while back when I had bought the engine, so I should have all the torgue spec and everything. Plus I have you guys to tell me what I am doing wrong, thats better than any book can do.

 

O ok, sounds easy enough.

 

Why if you had micrometers would you use plastigauge? The main tools I use most are, torque wrench, ring expander, ring compressor, micrometers, dial bore gauge, dial indicator with test stand, feeler gauges. Just some of the things you have to mic or check with a dial indicator.

Main clearances
Rodclearances
Crank endplay
Piston to valve (use a dial indicator not modeling clay and all that junk)
piston to wall clearance
deck height
degreeing camshaft
thats just the basics. how to rebuild the small block ford is a pretty basic book thats easy to understand.

 

I agree with you that this is the best way, but the original post was for what tools were "needed". I assume that the original post was for the bare minimum. Also, IMHO plastigauge is better for someone who has never used a micrometer or a bore gauge. For minimums, you can get by with:

Main clearances - plasigauge
Rod clearances - plastigauge
Crank end play - feeler gauge the thrust bearing
Piston to valve - you can use modeling clay (checking is a good idea but not absolutely necessary unless running long duartion cam)
Piston to wall clearance - feeler gauge (He said it was going to be a freshly bored engine, so I assume no taper)
Deck height - use straight edge and feeler gauge
Degreeing camshaft - Degree wheel and dial indicator (you can check lobe center without the dial indicator if you have a good feel but dial indicator is best)

 

umm........ a ring compressor and torque wrench is all you really need. YES, have the shop knock in your cam bearings after they bore AND resurface your block, hot tank it, and install freeze plugs (you can probably do the freeze plugs actually, they are easy). also, you made no mention of your rods but you need to have them reconditioned and for gods sake USE ARP BOLTS!!!!!!!!!

THRUST: unless your building a high end race motor you do not need to use a dial gauge on thrust clearances. when the crank is torqued down give the large weights a few good whacks with a hammer, then knock the crank frontwards and backwards 1 good time each way. this ensures the bearings are seated properly, and every builder i have seen does this. after that you should be able to stick a large screwdriver down between a main cap and the crank and pry it forwards and back just enough to see that its moving. also the crank should spin nice and smoothly. if it does, your good to go

MAIN / ROD CLEARANCES: yea, plasticgauge is alright to use - but honestly if your shop is worth a damn everything should be ok when you get it. also too tight you will know because the motor will be tight to turn, and a *little* loose will run and run and run - too loose and you should know it,if you can wiggle those rods side to side when installed your in trouble.... if not, your good to go. btw, you SHOULD be able to move rods forwards and back just a little when they are tightened down on the crank.

PISTON TO WALL CLEARANCE: the shop will hone your cylinders to spec based on the pistons your using (obviously they need them @ time of boring/honing). also for standard applications a normal set of rings will be already properly gapped.

RING EXPANDER: seriously, are you guys pussies [>:][>:][>:][>:][>:][>:]

PISTON TO VALVE: again, are we building a high end race motor? if not, you dont need to worry about this.

DEGREEING CAMSHAFT: see above statement

DECK HEIGHT: are you serious???




when you see motors getting built all day long every day you learn what works and what doesnt, what NEEDS to be checked and what doesnt. forget everything you have seen on spike tv's powerblock, and half the crap you read in magazines.

 

Thats the kind of answer I was looking for. Now I feel better.

Can I ask you, do you work in a shop?

 

im not working anywhere at the moment, but i've worked in 3 different machine shops (in the head dept.) and two of those shops built and sold stock replacement motors similar to what you'd buy from your local autoparts store except we didnt use junk cores to build motors (no welded cranks, pinned heads, sleeved blocks, etc). one of the shops also sponsored a few different cars (different classes) at the local roundy-round track - stuff like 600+ hp small block chevys using GM blocks, cranks, and head castings.