Nice. I may be asking you more questions when I start putting it back together.

 

Also a small thin fileand a set of feeler gauges may be needed if you want to properly gap the rings, (some people do, some people don't) other than that you have it covered.

 

OK. First of all Nick said nothing about crank work so you can't assume that the bearing clearances will be ok without checking them. Second, he mentioned porting and polishing the heads which says to me that he is not building a stock motor. Yes, building a stock motor you can just throw it together and be fine, but there was no mention of how stock this motor is going to be. In my book that means at least checking this stuff when it goes together. A few bucks for feeler gauges ($5) and plastigauge ($2) is cheap insurance when talking about building a motor for yourself. I think its foolish to not do these simple checks to save possibly having to pull the engine later. Also, while you may be able to "feel" bearing clearance wrt main bearings (I doubt it), I would challenge anyone to tell the difference between proper rod bearing clearance and a little too loose once the rings are in the holes. Once the ring drag is present you aren't going to be able to "feel" anything wrt bearings. On top of that we are obviously talking about a guy building up his first motor. No offense, but he won't know the difference between good and bad using "feel." Generally things will go together fine and everything will be as it should, but stuff happens even in the best of shops and with the best of parts. Being a little careful is prudent. I have come across bad parts before and you don't know until you check. Rebuilders who do quantity work generally do fine, but they do have engines come back for warranty from time to time.

Nick, it is up to you, but it is very easy with these simple tools to check everything that you need to. Wouldn't you rather do at least this simple and inexpensive stuff and have a good feeling about your engine.

 

I had no idea they were that cheap. I was thinking big $$$. Being that cheap I will be doing that.

BTW it will be a mild 351w

 

Yes you can put an engine together with a torque wrench, ring compressor, and plastigauge. But IMO if I am building something that someone has paid me, or I have invested my money into, I want to rely on a good mic set and a good dial indicator, heck do what I do with books, I buy em, read them in a day or two, then take them back and tell them I realized I already had it when I got home and get a refund, ive done it with tools, clothes for weddings, anything really.

But it should be noted that most of what I work on are either SCCA spec type engines or 410 ci aluminum dirt track engines so what I use pays for itself easily. You can get a dial indicator and stand for 40 bucks if you want an occasional use but I would definantly want one as it is so much easier, and even if you dont necessarily need to go over it that precisely, you can feel good that you did. Also all you need for crank thrust is to attach your #2,4 main caps with the bolts hand tight, and the #3 hand tight, take a flat head screwdriver between the main cap and crank throw at #4 and pry it back and forth with a dial indicator on the front end of the crank, then torque #3 down and repeat, untorque and with a dead blow hammer tap the #3 main cap towards the #2 or 4 main caps to adjust the setting, repeat until the hand tight and torqued values match.

 

Measuring with micrometers and bore gauges is the most accurate and will get you the best answers. I don't argue that at all. Lets talk cost... A 0 to 3 inch set of micrometers can be bought for about $60, and a 1-1/2 to 6 inch bore gauge will run about $100. That is for import stuff. Those micrometers will do the bearings, and the bore gauge will do that and the cylinders, but you will need either a 3 to 4 inch or a 4 to 5 inch micrometer to measure the piston and set the bore gauge for measuring cylinder/piston clearance. Each of those will probably be about $75 each. Like I said, these are the best way to go and is actually what I use to build up my engines. However, having been a machinist for half my life I would not recommend this for you. Using micrometers and bore gauges is not just a pull them out of the box and start using them proposition. You would need someone to show you how to use them and it requires a little bit of feel. This is why I personally would recommend the feeler gauge and plastigauge methods. They are simple and will provide adequate results for a mild to moderate street engine. It's your decision. I along with many others can can answer any questions you have about how to check things out either way.

BTW, here is a link that explains plastigauge use.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-...learances.html

 

hey 109, if he's reusing the old crank and rods and just cleaning them up and they weren't knocking before what makes you think they would knock with new (and unworn) bearings? like i said before, a *little* loose is fine, its a little too tight that will kill a motor. hell, we'd put go-fast stuff on the loose end of the specs anyways because we know its gonna get beat. bore diameters, bearing clearances, etc.

the only way i see a problem is if you get a .010 bearing in a std. box, or .060 rings when they are supposed to be .030 - something like that would be easy enough to pick up on when parts simply didnt fit.

lastly, i gotta wonder if you (or RG) even have dirt under your fingernails right now? honestly?

 

Like I said. It would more than likely be OK, but for $2 I'd do the plastigauge. Just my opinion.

 

i'm surprised no one has mentioned rifle cleaning brushes for the galley holes.