progress .. u-joints dilemma
Hi all,
in my rearaxle, brake and T5 swap I'm nearing the end ...
I have ripped out the ole 3spd and just got the bellhousing back from the machine shop with the adapter plate on it.
I received parking brake cables that will fit to my new rear brakes and on Saturday I'm gonna put it all back together.
I'm just waiting for a driveshaft I've ordered from modern driveline.
I couldn't drive my car since I started as I couldn't get my driveshaft to hook up to the new 9" rear.
So here's what I learned about Ford Mustang U-joints in the past half year:
u-joints can be hybrid, which means one axis on the cross is a different type than the other.
here are the common types used in Ford (Mustangs):
Type 1100: assume type 1100 (to be verified): 1" cap dia using inside snaprings, but the overall length is 2.3" (inside snapring to inside snapring is only 1.72" !!!). Those are ridicoulously small and can be found only on 6cyl applications. Conversion from this to 1310 is not proven to exist.
This can be problematic with rearend or T5 conversions->new driveshaft needed.
Type 1260: 1" cap diameter, inside snapring with INSIDE length (snapring to snapring) of 2.342". exist on V8 and I6
Type 1310: can be either 1-1/8" OR 1-1/16" cap diameter with an OUTSIDE span of 3.219". very typical to Small Block V8
Type 1330: can be either 1-1/8" OR 1-1/16" cap diameter with an OUTSIDE span of 3.625". only found in Big Blocks as far as I know.
Type 1350: 1-3/16" cap dia and OUTSIDE span of 3.625" (never seen one). (racing application????)
my propblem was that the rear of driveshaft had a 1100/1100 cross. and the rear axle pinion is 1310 (1-1/16).
There is no way you'll ever be able to hook it up, only with different driveshaft or weld a 1310 receiver to the end if it.
It wouldn't be a good idea anyway as you'd brake that U-joint even if it existed. But I just wanted to drive it a few meters to test my new brakes, wheels, tyres and rear ... maybe soon
So if anyone ever comes up with the same idea and measures the same, I hope this'll help. I wasted a lot of time and money trying it to do the easy way (u-joints).
4 weeks after receiving 4 times the wrong u-joints and _then_ learning that what I need doesn't exist and/or doesn't make sense, I gave up and bought a driveshaft which I should have done in the first feckn place
Kalli
in my rearaxle, brake and T5 swap I'm nearing the end ...
I have ripped out the ole 3spd and just got the bellhousing back from the machine shop with the adapter plate on it.
I received parking brake cables that will fit to my new rear brakes and on Saturday I'm gonna put it all back together.
I'm just waiting for a driveshaft I've ordered from modern driveline.
I couldn't drive my car since I started as I couldn't get my driveshaft to hook up to the new 9" rear.
So here's what I learned about Ford Mustang U-joints in the past half year:
u-joints can be hybrid, which means one axis on the cross is a different type than the other.
here are the common types used in Ford (Mustangs):
Type 1100: assume type 1100 (to be verified): 1" cap dia using inside snaprings, but the overall length is 2.3" (inside snapring to inside snapring is only 1.72" !!!). Those are ridicoulously small and can be found only on 6cyl applications. Conversion from this to 1310 is not proven to exist.
This can be problematic with rearend or T5 conversions->new driveshaft needed.
Type 1260: 1" cap diameter, inside snapring with INSIDE length (snapring to snapring) of 2.342". exist on V8 and I6
Type 1310: can be either 1-1/8" OR 1-1/16" cap diameter with an OUTSIDE span of 3.219". very typical to Small Block V8
Type 1330: can be either 1-1/8" OR 1-1/16" cap diameter with an OUTSIDE span of 3.625". only found in Big Blocks as far as I know.
Type 1350: 1-3/16" cap dia and OUTSIDE span of 3.625" (never seen one). (racing application????)
my propblem was that the rear of driveshaft had a 1100/1100 cross. and the rear axle pinion is 1310 (1-1/16).
There is no way you'll ever be able to hook it up, only with different driveshaft or weld a 1310 receiver to the end if it.
It wouldn't be a good idea anyway as you'd brake that U-joint even if it existed. But I just wanted to drive it a few meters to test my new brakes, wheels, tyres and rear ... maybe soon
So if anyone ever comes up with the same idea and measures the same, I hope this'll help. I wasted a lot of time and money trying it to do the easy way (u-joints).
4 weeks after receiving 4 times the wrong u-joints and _then_ learning that what I need doesn't exist and/or doesn't make sense, I gave up and bought a driveshaft which I should have done in the first feckn place
Kalli
Good info, Kalli.
Thanks for posting this up as I am sure it will come in handy for someone down the road.
Good luck putting it all back together this weekend.
Keep us posted.
Cheers.
Thanks for posting this up as I am sure it will come in handy for someone down the road.
Good luck putting it all back together this weekend.
Keep us posted.
Cheers.
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