I am not the guy to answer that but it needs flushing. Someone here should be able to answer as to the best way to do it. The only way I have ever done it was using a water hose and running the water in backwards with engine running.
Dan

 

220 is definitely getting hot. 210 is not bad if you can keep it there as it reduces quench, thereby improving combustion efficiency. The OE thermostat was a 192/195 unit, which probably finishes opening around 205F, perfect operating temp for the engine.

But since the temp keeps climbing, definitely install a fan shroud. I'd also recommend a clutch fan to go with. I bet the shroud helps a lot. If it doesn't, I'd recommend a coolant flush. An actualradiator shop can do this, but most places that claim they perform 'coolant flushes' actually only have a coolant exchange machine, which just swaps coolant. A true coolant flush will flush out any contaminants in the system. Usually runs about an hour's labor, but it's worth it if you've got crap in your cooling system.

 

Thanks Tad, I'll look into the "real" flush tomorrow and install the fan shroud.

Does the fact that it has .30 forged pistons, cam, headers, 4bbl edelebrock, on it make it run hotter than normal? Forgive me if this is a stupid question as I am new to the whole restoration thing.

Thanks again everyone!

 

have you let it get hot and feel the radiator see if you have anyone cold spots where its not cooling

 

A .030 over smallblock will probably run a little warmer than stock, especially with the modifications you've made. Shouldn't be a problem for a 3-row radiator though, as long as everything's working right. Make sure you check the timing, too. As rmodel said, you may need to advance it a little. Retarded timing will make the engine run hot.

 

Haven't done that one yet....

I'll give it a shot tomorrow as well.

 

Didn't see it anywhere in this thread, but what about the thermostat?? A stuck thermostat will do it quicker than anything. When was it last changed and do you know what temp thermostat is in there?? 210 is top of normal range in my book. 220 is definately hot.

 

Thermostat was changed a couple of months ago. It's working that's for sure, every time it reaches 180 you can see the temp drop with the fresh water that comes in. But then it slowly makes it way back up to the 210 - 220 range.

Thanks again everyone, I hadn't been on here in a while and the # of responses shows just how much a newbie like myself could learn here. For the record, here is a photo of what she looks like now. I recently did the disc brake conversion, shelby drop, and 1/3 coil cut and I took a photo of her while she was getting aligned to the shelby drop specs. Sometimes it's nice to see what car we're talking about.

Anyhow, thanks again everyone. Now I need to find out what's making her run hot...

 

I'm on board with Starfury with this one too. However, I'm concerned though that your temp is rising at hi-way speed where you should have the most thermal efficiency from your radiator with the airflow. Maybe you don't have enough coolant flow or heat exchange? You don't have a HP water pump do you (they don't flow as much as I recall, which reduces drag and giving more HP to the motor)?

 

That doesn't sound right. The thermostat opening shouldn't cause the temp to drop. Not how it's supposed to work. The temp should rise to about 20 deg over the rating of the thermostat and remain pretty constant there if everything is sized right for the system. The thermostat should open slowly and smoothly and that should be reflected on the temp gauge as a smooth rise up to operating temp. It isn't a full open or full closed type of affair. The thermostat could be sticking and could also not be fully opening.

Also, in addition to what jlg2002 touched on, you don't have underdrive pulleys on there do you?