Not much to report thus far. I have only welded up the area where the VIN was cut out. However, i do have my first question
The car


Fender Apron Fixed, or at least halffixed.Now i just need to find or purchase a stamp kit



And first question-Why did they cut out the triangular support on the rear side of the drivers engine mount?? I am going to take a guess and say for header clearance.

 

Also, the seat mounts have been dropped. Does anybody know what seats unique performance was using? perhaps the stockers will still work-not sure how high the seats sat originally.
thanks

 

I think the supports were added like a gusset as a big engine may twist the stock mounts. It looks like additional supportswere alsoadded to the shocktowers, kinda like the extra plate on a 428 car. All will help keep things were they need to stay.The seat bases were more than likely dropped and maybe moved back to give more headroom and leg room. I'm guessing that a set of Scat Pro Car seats would work nice. I moved mine back about 6" and have a lot more room, but I extended the base.Their is almost no leg room back their butone rides in the back anyway. I think the shock tower bracing looks very good and should work very well.

 

The gussets are on all of the cars i have currently including the rustang. I was curious why they removed the one from the rear drivers side. Yes, the supports were welded in nicely and the shock towers were also welded up where any of the metal met other areas.
I've never actually sat in a mustang before besides a 65 convertible. Well, and one 67 fastback when i was about 6 or 8, but that doesnt count. So, i guess i need to go pull one of the stock seats out of storage and see how well i fit. They definately dropped them down about 1-1/2 to 2 inches
Also, do you know what lower scoops they used?? They look more like the 65-66 style eleanor scoops than the 67-68 eleanorunits. There is no fiberglass leading up to the door and the glass ends where the ridge is on the body

 

I noticed that cut-out piece also. As best I can figure, it's probably related to the TCP style R&P unit. I can't see how removing that corner would effect header clearance.

UP was definitely using the SCAT ProCar Rally seats. I know, becausewe ordered a set from them.... and after waiting an eternity for them to arrive I learned that SCAT had a couple dozen sets of them waiting for a UP payment check.We ended up buying a pair of these seats directly from Ron at SCAT. Two weeks later,Ryan filled myUP orderandwe ended up with2 sets of seats.

This actually worked out pretty good.We only needed one set and put the spare set up for auction on eBay. They sold for over twice whatwe paid for them.

Yes, to get a good fit with the ProCar Rally seats, if you're anywhere near 6' tall you'll want the seat risers lowered/moved rearward.

Can you provide a close-up picture of the side scoops? You're right, something doesn't look quite right....

Dave

 

That would definately make more sense. I am sure it will all fall into place once i get to the point.
Here are some more pictures of the scoop etc.



Here is a pic of an eleanor scoop compared to the one on the unique car



I sanded down this portion and as you can see it is metal



And here is a shot from the front-there is no fiberglass that extends out from around the hole to where the panel meets the door. Personally i like this look a lot better and think it provides for a better flow. However, it must have been difficult to achieve.

 

Any idea what these brackets go to?? I found them inside the car and they have been trimmed


Rear Trunk crossmember has been trimmed for some reason on the oustide corners above the reverse light holes. Ideas??




There is a hole cut in this crossmember. Once again, i have no idea what it would be for



Here is a picture of a hole in the passenger lower firewall. Perhaps for wiring??



And last, a picture of the doors. Why would they weld the corners??

 

The lower side scoops that are attached to the car are not the traditional ones that UP was using. Why those are installed instead of the type you're holding in your hand is a mystery.

This may work out better for you. When UP installed their traditional side scoops (like the loose one you were holding), the leading edge of the scoops flat surface bumped up flush with the door opening. This would cause the body line of the closed door to be"off".... significantly. To overcome this, UP built up the thicknessof the trailing edge of the door so that when the door was closed it would seem "flush" with the scoop.

Here are some pictures of an in progress UP car.

Note the different scoop and the added thicknessto the front of the quarter panel....




Now look at the trailing edge increased thickness of the door....








Dave

 

Damn those loose brackets look oh so familar. They go to the car somewhere..... I just can't nail it down. It's going to bug the crap out of me until this question is answered....

I assume that UP trimmed the rear valance area to provide clearance for the PIAA backup lights that they used in the rear valance.

The enlarged hole in the transmission tunnels floor support was for running the fuel lines and positive cable from the rear of the car, up to the front.

The hole in the passenger side toe-board is for the AC drain tube.

I have no idea why a weld would be needed on that door corner, unless it was cracked? Repop doors are pretty weak in this area, maybe UP was taking a precautionary step and beefing up this corner? ....but that's a stretch.

Dave

 

Thanks for all of the help-now i will know what to look out for in the future.
Both doors on one car say weld door corner, the ones on the other do not.

Yes, i really like the way the lowerscoops on this carlook, but i bet it was a ton of work to get it to fit correctly.

My fiberglass fenders, upper nose, and lower nose should arrive sometime next week. I will update the post as soon as i can manage to get some work done. In the meantime its back to putting more hours in to the rustang.