I know it has been mentioned here before butI had no luck finding anything on the search. What can cause this and how can I eliminate it?
Ihave a built 351, 9"posi, koni shocks all around, spherical bushings, subframe connectors.I knowshe's a stiff ride butshe spends most of her time on the track.

 

get some shelby traction bars

 

Try http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

 

+1 for the CalTracs system. You'll have to get your leaf spring front bushings pressed out as the CalTracs uses an aluminum bushing, but you'll never have wheel hop again.

Dave

 

Agreed on the Caltracs. Going with a 351w myself though for street use and maybe 2 or 3 track runs for fun once completed. I wasn't gonna bother with the 298 but really thinking about them with the 351w now. Not that the wife will be tearing up the streets (much ) but it should help keep better control along with the limited slip. They are more expensive than most but from what I've read much better and a bolt in install rather then welding.

 

I have heavy duty springs and konis, but the shock absorber wont correct the spring flex on launch causing the hop. Get a pair of traction bars. Really cheap and a 5 min bolt on. When I put mine on, wheel hop disappeared forever.

CP

 

+1
Traction Masters traction bars. They're cheap and work great, and they were standard on early GT350's. They do require a bit of welding, but any muffler shop can weld them in for you in no time flat.

 

Traction masters keep mine from hopping.

 

I LOVE my CE Slide-A-Links! They are super adjustable and totally eliminated my wheel hop along with a nice set of TCP 4.5 springs. I am running about 460hp and 470ft*lbs with M/T Sportsman Pro tires. I get little to no wheel spin, just a little glazing and much acceleration! If you decide to get traction bars, do yourself a favor and get sub-frame connectors too. That is the direction I went and it is the best rearend I could have hoped for short of a 4 link.

 

the cause is spring wrap where the wheel motion is torquing the axle housing to load the springs (kinda bending them in the middle to an "S" shape) which can only go so far before they unload and "spring" back again, repeat for the "hop".

the traction masters, caltracs etc correct this by stopping the spring wrap. the alternative is different springs. If you are spending a lot of time on the track it might be worth you calling maier racing about their rear spring packs.