Oh! Oh! Wait! I've got it! It's a line lock! Trace the wires and see where they go

 

what ????

 

that makes sense because you would want the front wheels to lock in a line lock set up. mabey it's an older style line lock.

 

A line lock. You step on the brake, flip a switch, the line lock holds pressure in the line so you can let off the brake and do burnouts (or load up the torque converter without moving the car), then you flip a switch to release the pressure.

 

definatly not a line lock not enough plumbing
see my earlier post it is a stoplight switch

 

I suppose that it could be a brake light switch... that mechanically senses pressure and completes an electrical circuit sending power to the brake lights.... but why? Why not use the factory brake light switch mounted to the brake pedal? It seems like an awful lot of work to make this modification just to get the brake lights to come on.

On a side note.... to the OP, please tell me that you're not actually driving this car. I've seen healthier looking brake components on cars at the junk yard. Every one of those brake lines (and the master cylinder) should be changed before this car is driven.

Dave

 

I was thinking along the same lines as David. Why put a pressure switch there? It just doesn't make sense.

And I don't see what other plumbing you'd need for a very simple line lock. Like I said, you step on the brake to apply pressure, flipa switch to close the valve in the front lines, and let off the brake. Cheapo line-lock. Of course, the only way to tell for sure is to take it apart and see if it's a valve or simply a pass-through tube with a small hole for the pressure switch.

 

i think dave is right....if you take your dash apart and look at the idiot light plastics, there is one that says "brake"

 

We Know Dave is right because Unit91 performed the simple test I suggested. He disconnected 1 wire and the brake lights still work.

Now to test the switch itself. If Unit has an standard meter , set on Ohms(upside down U, 2K or 2000), it will read infinite Ohms (1 or 1999 or blinking display) then it is a defective low pressure switch. If it reads 0 - 100 Ohms or something close then the switch is good and problem is wiring or lamp.

The above test will work for a line lock switch as well.

Not sure if the key has to be on or not but you will get 12 volts on 1 of the wires. Set the meter to volts - 20. Put the red lead on one wire and the black on ground. Try both wires. If nothing then there is no power to the switch.

If there is 12 volts on 1 wire then set the meter to Ohms again. Put 1 lead on the other wire- not 12 volts- and the other lead on ground. You will get some Ohm reading if the lamp and wiring is good. if it reads infinite Ohms then the lamp or wiring is bad.

If no meter is available, just short the wires together with a jumper. If the dash light works then the switch is probably bad. if the dash light does not light then buy a meter.

 

I have been driving it around, but not much. Still having a problem with the rear lights. Turn signals and brake lights works fine separately, but hit the brake and activate the turn signal and the brake light goes out and only the turn signal works. Same problem left and right. Traced the wiring for a short, and checked for bad ground, but didn't find any faults. Could it be the actual bulb socket?