yea thats all way over my head as knowledge goes. maybe safest bet would be to just buy a proffessionally built short block throw a cam in it, my heads and intake. sounds like im going to be over my head in stroking the motor unless i have someone walk me throughout the proccess

 

eZ,

You're thinking way too much into it. If you've got a nice standard bore 5.0 block.... either follow the advice given by the previous poster on how to notch the bottoms of the cylinders or bring the block to a machine shop and have them do it. You don't need to overbore a fresh 5.0 block by 0.030", when you order the stroker crank/rods and pistons, just tell the seller that you need standard size pistons.

When you were 2 years old and watched your mom tying your shoes, you, like everyone else were probably thinking to yourself, "boy, I'll never get this".

Trust me, once you get that motor flipped upside down on a stand, everything makes sense and it's a piece of cake.

About 6 weeks ago, I spun a rod bearing on my #7 cylinder. I limped the car home and had the engine out that afternoon. I dropped the crankshaft off at a machine shop, picked it up a week later and rebuilt the whole bottom end one night after work. The next evening, I re-dressed the entire engine (fan and all) and then reinstalled the engine the night after that. Saturday morning I reinstalled the transmission and was test driving the car after lunch. Now, I've done this a few times so I knew what I was doing, but my point is that none of this stuff is "mind boggling", it's just basic mechanics. Special tools required are a lbs/ft torque wrench, a set of feeler gauges and a piston ring compressor (about $10 at Autozone).

We're not talking about rocket science here, this is pretty simple stuff. But if you never "jump in", you'll never realize that the water isn't really that deep.

Dave

 

aye perfectly true. since the car is in the shop you might as well yank the engine out.
might prevent you from getting a bad back when working with engine stand.
It's cleaner this way.

 

I know that the Urban Cowboy may have confused you some, but don't worry about all of that. Just Get a complete kit, you can get almost anycompression you want if you look around, and prices are compareable. Trust me, it is pretty much common sense. When you lay the crank in the block and put on a piston/rod assembly, you will be able to see where they are going to hit. Its right there in front of you, no tight spaces or anything hard. I have the faith that you could easily do it if you have some mechanical knowledge. But like I said, no need for custom pistons, just get something really close to what you want. It you are going Naturally aspirated or N20, I'd say go with a compression of about 9.5 to 10.5:1 It will still be pump gas friendly if you do this.

 

if you don't bore the block and you stroke it.. it'll be a 342 instead of a 347 = no big difference but the correct pistons and rod an crank combo should be choosen..personally I like the 5.315 rod for a stroker and matching piston....this is one of the more optimal rod combos in a stroker for reduced piston rock and proper placement of wrist pin vs oil controlring.....whatever option you choose.. you won't regret having a stroker

 

well this is where im at...

A) about 1,000 for stroker kit. If i do the work myself i still have to send the block off to be machined...probably close to $500. ok then i still have to do all the labor...im thinking about a long 3 day weekend. or i can buy a short block for about 2,200 and then sell my 302 with the cast iron heads.

B) Keep the 302. install a XE282HR cam along with the afr 185s and air gap manifold with some good tuning i should be over 400hp. MM&FF got 454hp out of that exact combination
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/...023/A23-P1.htm

 

that was my exact combo in a 306 with .200 dome pistons and I'll tell you it won't be 400 rwhp more so lower 300's with flat top pistons..with the dome pistons compression was around 11 to 1 and it ran 12.20's at 112 now my combo is the same as above but it has a 347 bottom end with same cam, heads and intake and rwhp my guess is upper 300's based on et of 11.79 @ 117 I believe mm&ff did that combo on a 347

 

If yor block only has 50 miles on it, there is no way in hell you will need to spend $500 on it. Period. Hell, 50 miles isn't even enough to seat a set of rings all the way. What we are sayning is that there is no need for any machine work to be done to the block, it doesn't need boring, so just order a kit with standard bore (4.000 inch)pistons.

 

[/quote] that was my exact combo in a 306 with .200 dome pistons and I'll tell you it won't be 400 rwhp more so lower 300's with flat top pistons..with the dome pistons compression was around 11 to 1 and it ran 12.20's at 112 now my combo is the same as above but it has a 347 bottom end with same cam, heads and intake and rwhp my guess is upper 300's based on et of 11.79 @ 117 I believe mm&ff did that combo on a 347
[/quote]

MM&FF did that build on a 302 but it was not rwhp if you figure 450 - 20% youd have around 360 rwhp. possible. did you build that combo on a 65-66? what kind of gears and tires? Im really interested because my goal is to have a 11 sec car. streetable though.

 

Think about this, MM&FF gets paid to advertise for AFR, don't you think it is possible that they fudged the numbers a little to help advertise for AFR? Just because they write it doesn't mean it is true. Afr makes good flowing castings, but their quality pretty much sucks other than that. Their springs and valve guides are junk too. Now, Im not bashing you personally, they do make good power, but after seeing and hearing from people that actually run them, I think they are overly exagerated.