never messed with suspension before........
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
The best suspension upgrade would be to do the Shelby/Arning upper control arm relocation. This changes the suspension geometry to give you negative camber during cornering, keeping the tires flat on the road. Aside from drill bits and a template (which you can make yourself or buy from Daze), it's free. A side effect of the drop is that it will lower the front about 1/2".
A bigger front sway bar would be a good idea. It will help stiffen up the front suspension to reduce body roll while cornering. Stock non-GT sway bars are pretty weak and don't do a whole lot. 15/16" is about as large as I would go without a rear bar.
An export brace should be considered a requirement. It replaces the cheap stamped shock tower braces with a heavier one-piece unit that ties everything together, reducing body flex during cornering. A monte carlo bar would be a good idea as well.
The proper way to lower the car is to replace the springs. This way you get the spring rate (ride quality) you want and the proper ride height. However, you can cut portions of your existing springs to lower the vehicle incrementally. Be aware, though, that spring rate will increase and ride quality will suffer the more you cut.
A bigger front sway bar would be a good idea. It will help stiffen up the front suspension to reduce body roll while cornering. Stock non-GT sway bars are pretty weak and don't do a whole lot. 15/16" is about as large as I would go without a rear bar.
An export brace should be considered a requirement. It replaces the cheap stamped shock tower braces with a heavier one-piece unit that ties everything together, reducing body flex during cornering. A monte carlo bar would be a good idea as well.
The proper way to lower the car is to replace the springs. This way you get the spring rate (ride quality) you want and the proper ride height. However, you can cut portions of your existing springs to lower the vehicle incrementally. Be aware, though, that spring rate will increase and ride quality will suffer the more you cut.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 877
From:
+ 1
TO add to that get a performance alignment NOT TO FORDS SPECS!!!!!!!!!!
This is the info I take to the alignment shop
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby drop”.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
As far as the UCA drop here is my web page on the subject
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop
Also check out "understanding Mustang suspension and bump steer"
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/bump
and if you like those there are other suspension and Mustang pages on my web page
www.dazecars.com
TO add to that get a performance alignment NOT TO FORDS SPECS!!!!!!!!!!
This is the info I take to the alignment shop
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby drop”.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
As far as the UCA drop here is my web page on the subject
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop
Also check out "understanding Mustang suspension and bump steer"
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/bump
and if you like those there are other suspension and Mustang pages on my web page
www.dazecars.com
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