hi, i have a 67 coupe with a 289 in it. when i start it up i hear ticking until the oil gets up throughout the motor and then it turns into a smaller ticking...when my motor is fully warmed up running at about 190 degrees the oil pressure is about 19psi at idle, and about 35-40 while driving. i am considering using a thicker oil than 10w-30. would that help my valve lash? my main question in this post is i need to adjust my rockers. i can move them a lot just by grabbing them and shaking them. how do i adjust the rockers on a 67 289?

thanks a lot,

chris

 

Step by Step:
1) Warm the engine up
2) Shut the engine off and disconnect the coil wire
3) Remove the valve cover
4) Jump the B+ terminal on the fender-mounted starter solenoid to the smaller terminal next to it (use an insulated screwdriver) until both valves on the #1 cylinder are closed.
5) Loosen both rocker nuts, tighten them until there is no vertical play in the pushrod, then tighten another 1/2 to 1/3 turn.
6) Repeat for cylinders 2-8.

 

Good advice. I would add that you should measure the rocker to push rod clearance with a feeler guage to properly set the lash to cam specs with a solid cam/lifter setup. I know with my CompCam (solid roller) the desired valve lash is 0.016intake 0.18exhaust. With hydraulic cam/lifter, you adjust until tight. If you over tighten, then you can flaten out the cam or damage the rocker, push rod, etc. If you under-tighten, you will have less than ideal valve lift and valve noise. I know most people follow Star's method, but with the oil we have now, I prefer to follow the directions given by the cam manufacturer.

 

The only difference between my method and any manufacturer's method for hydraulic lifters in an adjustable valvetrain is the order in which you do the valves. Most people will have you do them one at a time, skipping between cylinders, which takes forever. My method you go cylinder by cylinder so you don't get lost, and it takes no more than 30min.

Since he has a '67 289, I'm assuming that he still has a hydraulic cam and the factory heads with adjustable rockers.

 

I do when running, as I had problems doing it starfury way (probably due to lack of talent). I cut of a top of an old valve cover and put that on after warming the engine start up and play with it until the noise goes!!

 

i do it running as well. engine warm. I even left the valve covers off. it creates a bit of mess as the oil splashes all over the place but nothing a few rags won't fix.
i did only one side of engione at a time so the other wouldn't mess during adjusting

my theory to this is: engine warm. loosen the nut slowly until it starts ticking. Then close it by two quarter turns. This has to be done very slowly (the closing) as when you just turn the thing by a quarter at a time quick the engine will stall.

kalli

 

thanks for all the help everyone. i will keep you all posted on how it goes. but when adjusting them the intake and exhaust valves must both be closed? and how do i know when they are closed?

 

Both valves will close when piston is at top dead center or close to it. You can tel when the valves will be closed when the push rod is at the lowest point. This is also typically when you can jiggle the rocker. You will not be able to move the rocker when it is opening a valve because of the valve spring pressure. You NEED to find out what type of lifters/cam you have before you go adjusting. Solid & Hydraulic lifters are adjusted differently.

 

pssst..... 10w30 is too thin for these old motors, even when they were new that would be too thin IMO. go with 10w40 and if its real tired even 20w50 will work.

and then of course there is always 15w40 rotella, which rocks

 

I don't see any reason why he'd have a solid lifter cam in that motor. If he did, he wouldn't be describing a 'ticking,' he'd be describing a clatter