Hi all,

I haven't changed the clutch itself but had removed the gearbox.
when getting rid of the gearbox I wasn't smart enough to just use a prybar to get out the rod that goes between the linkage and the clutch release.
So altogether there are 2 places where you can adjust the clutch. 1 is at trhe linkage itself and the other is that rod that I was talking about.
I played around with both and ended up in a situation so that the linkage is adjusted at the very very last thread (no more possible).
If I go the other direction The pedal is going towards the floor.
The linkrod I can't extend (make any longer) because the bad thread wouldn't hold it.
I ordered 2 different rods as I didn't know which one I'll need.
Engine and bellhousing is both 289 from 66
I ordered 7521-7a because it's the one for my date and looks like what I have
as well as 8a because it's longer. my current rod is 7-1/8 overall length and seems to be too short ?!

once I receive them, how should they be adjusted? will I set the rod to a specific length and then adjust the pedal linkage?
or will i just put the pedal linkage to center (so I can adjust in both directions) and adjust the rod so the pedal is fine?

currently the pedal is far too close to floor and when pressed only the last 1-1/2" release the clutch. This naturally gives me a bit of problems switching gears.
Parts are on the way but I thought if someone has any insight on what to do here ...

Kalli

 

kalli, it's been years since I sold my GT350, but one of the problems I ran into was a broken equalizer bar (cross shaft). Mine was cracked where the inner arm attaches to the shaft tube. This throws the whole linkage out of kilter. Another problem I remember was the split plastic bearings on the pivot *****. I had Hooker headers on mine and they made the clutch linkage work a real pain.

 

thanks a million fr the ideas. I know the fork itself is good as I had the transmission out. But I'll check again if there's something else loose