POR15 Question
How much Por15 would I need to coat the underbody and the top of the floorpans? Also, would I need to use the degreaser and metal ready or could I just clean up the areas that I am going to apply it to by using comet/water and paint it on?
Is the metal ready they sell the stuff that I would want to spray my bare metal down with before applying primer to etch it after stripping areas of my car?
Thanks for the info!
Is the metal ready they sell the stuff that I would want to spray my bare metal down with before applying primer to etch it after stripping areas of my car?
Thanks for the info!
How much used will depend on how you apply it. Will you be spraying it on brushing or rolling it it on? How many coats will you be using?
To give you an idea... we just sprayed the inside floors, toe boards, firewall, engine bay (inside & outside), rad support and the entire under chassis (front to back). Everything got 3 coats sprayed direct without using any solvent to thin it out. We used a normal gun, large compressor and sprayed at about 30psi. After 3 coats we had used about 2/3 to 3/4 of a gallon. The under chassis is a lot of area and takes quite a bit. Note that 2 coats would likely have been fine everywhere except the under chassis where you'll want 3 coats.
If you want it to stay black for show you'll want to use one of their Topcoats such as Blackcote or Chassiscoat Black. UV rays will slightly discolor POR-15 although this does not affect its performance. I went with the Chassiscoat Black for inside the engine bay but didn't bother with it for the floors or the under chassis.
Yes, you'll want to use both Marine Clean and Metal-Ready! We washed everything down twice with the Marine Clean and it works great. As the directions state.. use warm/hot water to dilute the Marine Clean.. Doesn't need to be boiling but good and warm works great. I tested it with cold water and it doesn't work as well! Metal-Ready is NOT diluted and gets sprayed on. We used the supplied spray bottles for the floor pans but for the engine bay and under chassis I decided to use a weed sprayer.
Way too much spraying to be done by hand! Keep it wet for 20 to 25 minutes then rinse off with water. I used a bucket of water and a few rags to rinse it all off. You'll feel the etching in the metal while doing this.
Let this dry! POR-15 will NOT dry or bond to the metal if wet! We used heat guns to go over everything to make sure there was no water trapped in any of the joints.. seat-risers, weld overlays, corners between the firewall and side panels, etc.
Doing the inside floors and firewall is a big job and a lot of work. Doing the engine bay is quite a bit more. Doing the entire under chassis is a HUGE job! Be prepared to spend a few (like 3) weeks on this with a rotisserie if you want it done properly. If you can have it sand blasted or dipped its much quicker however I didn't have those options at the time and did it all by hand.
No, you can't just use comet and water to prep the area and paint it on. You need to remove everything and clean it down to the bare metal. The floors aren't that bad to do but the under chassis is a huge under taking.
EDIT:
SAFETY NOTES! You WILL need a respirator! Don't use a cheap paper filter painters mask! Spend 10 bucks and buy a disposable paint suit with hood, old boots or shoes, gloves, eye wear that seals to your face, etc! This stuff WILL cover you and if dried on your skin it does NOT wash off. It can also cause serious skin and lung issues for some people. Marine Clean WILL burn your skin! Only handle it with quality rubber or chemical gloves on. Undiluted it'll not simply leave a rash but will burn your skin. Metal-Ready should be handled with the same precautions.


* Yes.. I know its on the rocker panel...
To give you an idea... we just sprayed the inside floors, toe boards, firewall, engine bay (inside & outside), rad support and the entire under chassis (front to back). Everything got 3 coats sprayed direct without using any solvent to thin it out. We used a normal gun, large compressor and sprayed at about 30psi. After 3 coats we had used about 2/3 to 3/4 of a gallon. The under chassis is a lot of area and takes quite a bit. Note that 2 coats would likely have been fine everywhere except the under chassis where you'll want 3 coats.
If you want it to stay black for show you'll want to use one of their Topcoats such as Blackcote or Chassiscoat Black. UV rays will slightly discolor POR-15 although this does not affect its performance. I went with the Chassiscoat Black for inside the engine bay but didn't bother with it for the floors or the under chassis.
Yes, you'll want to use both Marine Clean and Metal-Ready! We washed everything down twice with the Marine Clean and it works great. As the directions state.. use warm/hot water to dilute the Marine Clean.. Doesn't need to be boiling but good and warm works great. I tested it with cold water and it doesn't work as well! Metal-Ready is NOT diluted and gets sprayed on. We used the supplied spray bottles for the floor pans but for the engine bay and under chassis I decided to use a weed sprayer.
Way too much spraying to be done by hand! Keep it wet for 20 to 25 minutes then rinse off with water. I used a bucket of water and a few rags to rinse it all off. You'll feel the etching in the metal while doing this.Let this dry! POR-15 will NOT dry or bond to the metal if wet! We used heat guns to go over everything to make sure there was no water trapped in any of the joints.. seat-risers, weld overlays, corners between the firewall and side panels, etc.
Doing the inside floors and firewall is a big job and a lot of work. Doing the engine bay is quite a bit more. Doing the entire under chassis is a HUGE job! Be prepared to spend a few (like 3) weeks on this with a rotisserie if you want it done properly. If you can have it sand blasted or dipped its much quicker however I didn't have those options at the time and did it all by hand.
No, you can't just use comet and water to prep the area and paint it on. You need to remove everything and clean it down to the bare metal. The floors aren't that bad to do but the under chassis is a huge under taking.
EDIT:
SAFETY NOTES! You WILL need a respirator! Don't use a cheap paper filter painters mask! Spend 10 bucks and buy a disposable paint suit with hood, old boots or shoes, gloves, eye wear that seals to your face, etc! This stuff WILL cover you and if dried on your skin it does NOT wash off. It can also cause serious skin and lung issues for some people. Marine Clean WILL burn your skin! Only handle it with quality rubber or chemical gloves on. Undiluted it'll not simply leave a rash but will burn your skin. Metal-Ready should be handled with the same precautions.


* Yes.. I know its on the rocker panel...
Last edited by Adrenolin; Sep 2, 2008 at 11:19 PM.
I still have everything on my car so I am really just wanting to hit the floorpans (top and bottom), trunk, gas tank, inside fenders and quarters. I probably want to stay away from it getting it on the driveshaft, exhaust, ect..
I wonder if the 6 pack would do that for me hitting it with roughly two coats or if I should buy the gallon.. It seems like that went a long way for you.
I will also be painting it on with a brush btw.
Thanks for all the information.
I wonder if the 6 pack would do that for me hitting it with roughly two coats or if I should buy the gallon.. It seems like that went a long way for you.
I will also be painting it on with a brush btw.
Thanks for all the information.
Last edited by wumarshall82; Sep 3, 2008 at 08:05 AM.
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