Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Carb identification help please

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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 07:58 PM
  #1  
fishkg's Avatar
fishkg
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Default Carb identification help please

My carb has a 1.08 venturi size cast into the side, and 9Z C stamped in below it. How do I decode this into the C9ZF-... number.

Is this the right carburetor for a 1969 302 w/automatic trans? It appears to me to be an Autolite 2100, and does not have an anti-stall dashpot.

I'm trying to solve a hesitation (to the point it actually dies sometimes) when accelerating from a dead stop. It also stumbles when accelerating after cruising at a constant speed for any length of time.
Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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Does your car have an auto or manual tranny? THe dashpot is for autos only, hope I helped some.
Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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I would also recommend a Pony Carbs rebuild if your carb is old, sure helped on mine. Also check your timming it might have something to do with it.
Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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fishkg
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It is an automatic transmission. All indications are that it should have a dashpot, but it doesn't. That's one reason I'm thinking it might not be the original, or even the correct carb for the engine.

I've read where Ford put dashpots on some manual transmission cars during that year, and failed to put them on automatics. Supposedly they came out with a technical service bulletin to correct the mistake.
Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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1965fastback
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Hmm never heard of that, if I was you I would buy a new carb. I've heard good things about Pony Carbs Vaporizors or a Holley 2 barrel. Just my .02
Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:34 PM
  #6  
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9Z is 1969 Mustang. Check your timing and rebuild your carb. Add a dashpot( it's only to prevent the thing from dying when you take your foot off the gas) If that works, fine. If not, you're only out 20-30 bucks.

Last edited by Oxnard Montalvo; Sep 3, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
Old Sep 4, 2008 | 09:04 AM
  #7  
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fishkg
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Yeah, rebuilding the carb is definitely in the near future. I just want to make sure the one I rebuild is the correct one for the engine.

Timing is set just to the point the engine doesn't ping on hard acceleration, which is about 10deg. The Haynes book shows 6deg. A lot of what I've read indicates the factory settings may not always be the best. I don't have any problem checking out different settings to see if it improves.

I'm also looking more at the carb due to the strong gas smell after parking it.
I cleaned the base and tightened the bolts holding the carb on last night. I think it may have been leaking a little around the gasket.

What does the last digit in the number mean ( C9ZF-A)? Information online shows several different Autolite 2100 carbs ending in -G, -A, -T,...
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