do i really need a proportioning valve?
ok so i have a 66gt, i switched to a dual bowl master cylinder, wilwood front disc, wilwood rear disc with internal parking brake, i got a wilwood proportioning valve as a "free gift" from where i ordered the brakes, so i figured why not install it,...
do i really need it? it seems to be another weak link possibly in the system, i dont like to many connections and bent lines, i feel like it may be slowing or stopping some of the fluid to the rear,...
it is all the way open right now....
anyone running front and rear discs with no valve?
do i really need it? it seems to be another weak link possibly in the system, i dont like to many connections and bent lines, i feel like it may be slowing or stopping some of the fluid to the rear,...
it is all the way open right now....
anyone running front and rear discs with no valve?
yah. take a huge carpark that is empty and wet and slam the brakes. You'll know if you need adjusting then. If the brakes in the back lock up earlier it will tear your back to the side. Careful ...
I upgraded the brakes on my '67 coupe from manual drum to power front disc. I used original equipment. I did not install a proportioning valve.
It has been well over a year and I have stopped hard more than once (not in the rain though, I must admit). I've never had any problem with one end locking up and spinning the car.
However, if I were to install a proportioning valve, I'd buy the combo proportioning valve / distribution block sold by SSBC. They offer 3 finishes: black ($125), polished ($145), and platinum ($135).
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...tang&year=1967
It has been well over a year and I have stopped hard more than once (not in the rain though, I must admit). I've never had any problem with one end locking up and spinning the car.
However, if I were to install a proportioning valve, I'd buy the combo proportioning valve / distribution block sold by SSBC. They offer 3 finishes: black ($125), polished ($145), and platinum ($135).
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...tang&year=1967
It IS restricting pressure to the rear, that's the whole idea. Drum brakes require much less pressure to operate than discs. Assuming everything's adjusted properly, if you slam on the brakes without a prop valve for the rear, you're going to lock the rears up long before the fronts. There's a reason every single vehicle ever to come out of a manufacturing plant with discs/drums has had a proportioning valve installed. There is no reason NOT to run one. It's not a weak link, any more than any of the other junctions in your brake lines are weak links.
Ever so more importain to have one. Set it up so that the front locks up just before the rear. It will take a few hard stops, buts its fun. I plumb mine inside so that I can adjust it from the drivers seat. Their is a good chance that the back will lock up first without the use of one. I am guessing that you have the adjustable one right? Otherwise make sure its set up for disc/disc as these will be different from the disc/drum or drum/drum units.


