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Pertronix installation question

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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #1  
Beaker39's Avatar
Beaker39
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Default Pertronix installation question

I am a new member, so forgive me if this question has been asked before. I am installing a Pertronix Ignitor II ignition in a 1966 Mustang 289 V-8. I have determined that this car has a resistor in the ignition wire, so I wish to run a bypass wire from the coil to the ignition switch. However, the wire is molded into the plug that connects to the switch in the dash. What is the best way to connect the bypass wire from the coil to the female blade in the plug without destroying the molded ignition plug?


Thanks!
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 07:17 PM
  #2  
Oxnard Montalvo's Avatar
Oxnard Montalvo
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I just ran a parallel wire using two snap splice connectors. I connected them as close to the ends of the resistor wire as possible, it worked fine, 12v at the coil.
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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^i got a couple of those red snap clip splice things with a tach not so long ago...personally, they were a pain in the A** to clip on. just my experience, and the fact that i was crawling around under the dash haha
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #4  
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350kmileFord
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I just unhooked the stock ignition wire and replaced it with one I made when I installed my DS II ignition from ClassicInlines.com The wire was hard to plug in, but now it's in and I don't need to worry about it.
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 11:12 PM
  #5  
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The wire isn't actually molded into the plug, the plug is crimped onto the wire (and possible a black/green wire as well). The proper way to do it would be to cut the wires and crimp on another 90* spade connectory. The easy way is to use a splice connector as mentioned above. I used a splice cause I'm lazy
Old Sep 25, 2008 | 08:29 AM
  #6  
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kalli
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yah. go for the lazy option. +1 on that.
Old Sep 25, 2008 | 09:19 AM
  #7  
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jcthorne
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Leave the wiring harness unmolested and update the coil. I used the yellow accel super stock coil and painted the body black. Works great without mod to the wiring harness and with the inline rally pac tachometer.
Old Sep 25, 2008 | 11:10 AM
  #8  
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That's not an option with the Ignitor II. The 2nd generation Pertronix unit requires a full 12+V to work properly. My Ignitor II had serious misfire issues when I was feeding it 8V.
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 02:44 PM
  #9  
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Get your hot from the starter relay near the battery. As you look at it, the small terminal on the right side is where the ignition power comes from.
Old Sep 29, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #10  
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Beaker39
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Default Thanks, but I am still unsure

Thanks to everyone who replied. I have some new information that leads to new questions. First, I got a authorized shop manual. It shows a red and green striped wire going from the coil to the firewall. This wire changes to pink, then back to red and green before connecting to the ignition switch. Also, there is a cylindrical plug connecting the pink wire to the red and green on the ignition side of the hookup. Which wire is actually the resistor wire (I have no resistor block)....the pink or the red and green?

I also notice that the red/green from the coil splits off and also plugs into a threaded stud on top of the engine block. What is this????

Finally, my local Mustang shop says that I must install a resistor wire because under driving conditions, the voltage may reach 14v and fry my coil. One final comment, I am using a Pertronix Ignitor II ignition module matched with a Flame Thrower II coil. The original Pertronix instructions demand that the original resistor system not be changed. Pertronix II (the one I have) instructions say that resistor systems must be removed.



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