That one going to the block is most likely a ground wire....just guessing.

 

Uh...there shouldn't be any wire going from the coil + to the engine block. That would cause a short and would melt the wire when you flick the key on. Trace that wire back and see where it goes.

The thick pink wire in the harness is the resistor wire. Bypassing that wire will remove the resistance from the circuit, giving you full source voltage at the coil.

If you had a stock coil, your mechanic would be correct about frying it. A stock replacement coil is designed to run on ~8V; supplying 12+V to it would likely melt it or cause it to explode. Your Flamethrower II coil is designed to run on full source voltage (12-14V), so no worries.

 

Thanks for the info. Looking under the hood and using my shop manual, it appears that the red/green wire runs with the wire that connects to what I now know is the temperature sensor (what I previously states as a stud on the block). I am still unsure about the final wiring. Ok....I have a 12v coil (Flame thrower II). Should run the hot wire from the module to the coil or directly to the ignition? My thinking is that although it is a resistor wire coming from the ignition, the coil should boost the voltage to 12v, no? If this is not the case, should the module wire be spliced into the red/green as it exists the ignition switch so a wire is still connected to the positive post of the coil or should I run it straight from the ignition switch to the module?

 

The module should be pulling power from the coil + terminal, which is fed by the ignition power wire. Feed 12V to the coil and you fix both problems