Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Battery rust

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Old May 22, 2005 | 07:32 PM
  #11  
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ORIGINAL: Soaring

Yeah Mark, that inner fender needs to either be patched or replaced. You are going to need a welder. Geterdun.
Okey dokey. Time for another skill in my repertoire. This is one of those times I wish my dad lived in California. He knows how to weld and already has a welder
Old May 23, 2005 | 12:43 AM
  #12  
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EDIT: Scott, have you posted pics of your mustang yet? I would like to see what you have done so far.
I've posted one picture that the dealer had posted on Autotrader. So far all I've done is stuff to make it safe to drive, and reliable. It sat since at least '97. Even the windows would barely move!
I am working on a console though, and am ordering the A/C kit Monday. I'll shoot a picture once the console is installed, and maybe do a quick web page for the "modified" A/C system.
If I can get the console and A/C installed, then with some luck, I'll get the 5 speed done before winter. That's going to be all I'll have time for this year.
Old May 23, 2005 | 12:06 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Battery rust

You might try a battery pad. I noticed that a few places make them to put under your battery so that it will not rust like that. My 73s battery tray has to be cleaned about every year.
Old May 23, 2005 | 06:08 PM
  #14  
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How does a battery pad stop battery shelf corrosion.?I would think it would hold the acid mosture to the metal.
Old May 23, 2005 | 08:51 PM
  #15  
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How does a battery pad stop battery shelf corrosion.?I would think it would hold the acid mosture to the metal.

Here's what one ad says: I guess it is a "base" which neutralizes acid




Stops leaking battery acid from destroying your car.
The Battery Mat ® is made of super absorbent polypropylene needle punch felt, with one side heat treated to give it additional strength. This fabric is slowly pressure-treated at high temperatures with a unique, all-natural, acid neutralizing formula, and then cured in ovens. Finally, the fabric is dipped in a latex sealant mixture, again in ovens, and screen printed.

World's Only Acid Neutralizing Mat / Acid Absorbing Mat
Traps and Neutralizes Battery Acid
Recyclable
Protects the Environment
Protects battery from harmful road vibration
Easy to Install
Completely Safe to Handle Before & During Installation
Protects against Corrosion
Ideal for placing under batteries in storage
Used by all Branches of the U.S. Military
Can be cut to fit your battery tray
Instalation instructions included
Dimensions: Width: 8 in. Height: 12 in Thickness: 3/16 in
Also available in different sizes and by the roll - call for pricing
Made entirely in the USA

Old May 23, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #16  
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It doesn't really stop it, it does help keep it from starting though. it is pourous on top, but sealed on the bottom. Like a good "Huggies" diaper. Has a substance that neutralizes the acid and suspends it in the pad away from the metal.
Unfortunately since the battery manufactures had to change the composition of how the plates are made (EPA and really a good thing for our world) Batteries tend to gas more at a lower temperature & voltage. In our kinder and earth freindlier world the lead paste Pb and PbO2 (negative gray and positive red-ish) does not completely adhere to the mesh of the plate frame.
Now more than ever it is very important to use good battery tools (ie terminal puller, and terminal spreader) as well as the little felt washers and pads. I am at the point now where I pull the battery at each oil change, clean it and the surounding area with a good glass cleaner, then reinstall.
I really hate rust!

Old May 24, 2005 | 04:56 PM
  #17  
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Yeah, after the oil and filter change, I take mine to a high pressure car wash, and spray the entire engine down, to include taking out the battery. I don't wash the body with the high pressure wash though. That is hand washed. My wife laughs at me for using a blow dryer on the battery and other engine compartments when I get it back from the car wash. But, it is my pampered baby..........
Old May 24, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #18  
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Finally a good use of my old dusty blow dryer ;-)

I screwed up on the composition of the positive plates. There is no sulfer just lead dioxide. Been bugging me all day, so I fixed the my previous post.

That mat is made in the USA!!! right on!!!

Old May 25, 2005 | 05:32 AM
  #19  
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I've never had much luck with those felt washers. I just use plain old grease. I daub a little all over the connection, and it seems to keep the white stuff from forming.
Old May 26, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #20  
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Grease is a popular way to stave off corrosion. What we have found on newer product with high output alternators, is that internal battery temperature gets so high it will actually liquify the grease and wick it in between the terminal and the post. Amazing just how well grease insulates the terminal from the post when that happens.
Our most effective way to combat terminal corrosion (besides proper servicing) was to use the felt washers that we buy from Napa. They come in a small coffee can sized cardboard and tin container. It's old time stuff, because I remember them back in the '70s. We replace them when we do the scheduled oil change maintenance. Tried those green and red ones from the cheap stores (ie Kragen, Autozone) but they didn't last long enough. And that "NoCos" red gell is a big mistake!!!
The ones I mentioned above work great and you can keep everything dry and clean so you don't end up with grease on your shirt sleeve while showing off your latest under hood doo-dad.



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