As I was prepping my car for the engine bay pressure wash, I saw that thw rust hole beneath the battery tray was larger than I expected. I have seen in catalogs where I can purchase the inner fender battery apron, but here is my question:

I see that it attached to the fender and the front supports with bolts. Is it possible to remove it by pulling the fender, headlight buckets, etc, or are there WELDS where it meets the frame???
In other words, is this an easily replaced item or do I need to have it taken out and welded back in?
EDIT to this question: if it needs to be welded, would it be easier or less expensive to cut the rusted area out and just have some new sheetmetal put in?

 

I replaced my battery tray last summer, and it was just bolted on. The bolts were rusted pretty badly, so I just wrenched them until they broke into. It was not an easy task to get the tray out, but there was no welding. Now, as you know, mine is a 65. I don't know about your 69, but I wouldn't think it would not be welded on just by looking the pics. You appear to have a bolt on top of the tray, and two on the side. You have some pretty serious rust that needs to come out. Is the inner fender also rusted through? If so, that cancer needs to be cut out and new metal welded in.

 

Yea, I'm not worried about the battery tray, that's just three rusty bolts, but I am way more about the inner fender. I only see bolts at the top where it meets the fender and the front where it meets the radiator supports. I was wondering how it joins to the shocktower fenders and the frame at the bottom. Is it welded? Does it groove or have tabs on the back? Does it just lay over it?

I found the part in Virginia mustangs and CJ mustangs catalog (under $50)

It looks a lot like this (this is a pic of the 1968 part) They didn't have a pic online of the 1969




http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.as...=CJ_Pony_Parts

 

Try looking at a picture of the replacement tray, And compare that with yours.
BTW: there is some excellent paint out now that has some kind of chemical formulation that will stop the rust. My neighbor picked some up, and I'm really impressed by how well it works.
When you remove the old tray and sand/grind out the rest of the rust, you may want to spray it with some of this stuff before priming and painting.

Also they have a real nice mat you can toss under the battery that does a great job of soaking up the acid and neutralizing it too.

 

OK. I know how to remove the tray. I need to know before I pull off fenders, headlight buckets, etc if the inner fender apron (the body panel behind and under the tray) is welded at the back (rearward) and at the frame (bottom) or if it it held in place solely by the bolts at the top and front.




The rest is great information, thank you. Is the "mat" available at auto stores? I will be pressure washing, sandblasting and painting the engine bay area before the motor is put back in

EDIT: Scott, have you posted pics of your mustang yet? I would like to see what you have done so far.

 

Scott is talking about POR 15 and other rust encapsulators you can get at NPD. Sorry buddy, but I don't know how the rear of that is held on with your 69.

 

I changed one on my 65 mustang a long time ago and did not have to remove anything. I currently have a 69 and it looks to be the same as my 65 was. So from what I see it bolts to the shock tower and fender along the top, but along the bottom where it meets the frame rail it is spot welded and I believe along the front where it connects to the radiator it is also spot welded. But it is not very difficult to change, I managed to do it in one day. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, that does make sense. I don't have a welder, so I may have to take it elsewhere, or "improvise"

 

Harbor freight.com about 200 bucks and well worth the money. Just ge the auto darkening mask for 50 bucks more. Never welded a day in my life and in the past year have become pretty good at it. Believe me it will pay for itself if you are just beginning your car.

 

Yeah Mark, that inner fender needs to either be patched or replaced. You are going to need a welder. Geterdun.