Cleveland engine
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 22
From: OREGON!!!!
Cleveland engine
I don't have a clue where to post this. If it's wrong, can it be moved?
I'm curious if anyone is reproducing the 351 Cleveland block? When the 358 in our drag car is used up, rather than rebuild it, we're curious if there's one on the market that will handle a few more horses, maybe there's one that's aluminum?
I'm curious if anyone is reproducing the 351 Cleveland block? When the 358 in our drag car is used up, rather than rebuild it, we're curious if there's one on the market that will handle a few more horses, maybe there's one that's aluminum?
Last edited by music_man; Oct 9, 2008 at 07:15 PM.
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From: Elk Grove, CA
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From: State of Jefferson
http://www.network54.com/Forum/11941...ing+shaken+out.
Tod is the name of the fellow who is trying to get the Cleveland blocks back in production.
I'd consider building up a Clevor, with an aftermarket Windsor block, like the world block linked above. it is all off the shelf stuff now with the aftermarket Cleveland heads from CHI or Edelbrock
Tod is the name of the fellow who is trying to get the Cleveland blocks back in production.
I'd consider building up a Clevor, with an aftermarket Windsor block, like the world block linked above. it is all off the shelf stuff now with the aftermarket Cleveland heads from CHI or Edelbrock
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From: Houston TX
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From: Texas Hill Country
Dart makes a 9.2" deck Sportsman block that should be a beefier version of the Clevland block. The 9.5" deck block uses a Windsor topend and Cleveland lowerend. I would guess the 9.2 block would be all Cleveland. You may give them a call. I love my 9.5" block and picked it over the 9.2" so I had more options for heads and intakes.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
Pretty much all the block makers have a Cleve and Windsor block, 9.5 deck height is 351W and 9.2 is Cleve.
If you're looking at a competitive race engine a couple things to keep in mind are that on a Cleve, you'll have to fork out a large chunk of cash for good heads, the factory castings simply aren't going to keep up with the modern heads people are using. It's going to depends on what kind of racing you're doing and how much performance you need, but Cleve heads ain't cheap. If you bracket race in a class where stock heads are fine, then there's no justification for the cost of an aluminum block.
The other thing, is don't be too quick to get an aluminum block. That's a VERY expensive proposition, and you're honestly looking at $5,000 minimum just for the block and prep before you stick anything else in it. An aluminum Cleve block is a waste unless you're talking about putting something like Brodix BF series heads on it, and then you're talking $10,000-12,000 just for a block and heads, minimum. Also, aluminum moves around a LOT. Most of those race blocks that are aluminum require constant attention and maintenance due to all the thermal expansion. Otherwise the valvetrain gets out of adjustment, head gaskets leak, intakes leak and so on and so forth. you basically have to re torque everything after each race weekend, and prolly tear it partly down and replace gaskets every now and then.
In all reality, there's no reason to start looking at the weight savings and cost of an aluminum block unless you're talking about laying down over 1,000hp. Even a factory Cleve block should be good for 600-700hp. And an aftermarket iron one is going to be good for 1,200-1,500.
If you're looking at a competitive race engine a couple things to keep in mind are that on a Cleve, you'll have to fork out a large chunk of cash for good heads, the factory castings simply aren't going to keep up with the modern heads people are using. It's going to depends on what kind of racing you're doing and how much performance you need, but Cleve heads ain't cheap. If you bracket race in a class where stock heads are fine, then there's no justification for the cost of an aluminum block.
The other thing, is don't be too quick to get an aluminum block. That's a VERY expensive proposition, and you're honestly looking at $5,000 minimum just for the block and prep before you stick anything else in it. An aluminum Cleve block is a waste unless you're talking about putting something like Brodix BF series heads on it, and then you're talking $10,000-12,000 just for a block and heads, minimum. Also, aluminum moves around a LOT. Most of those race blocks that are aluminum require constant attention and maintenance due to all the thermal expansion. Otherwise the valvetrain gets out of adjustment, head gaskets leak, intakes leak and so on and so forth. you basically have to re torque everything after each race weekend, and prolly tear it partly down and replace gaskets every now and then.
In all reality, there's no reason to start looking at the weight savings and cost of an aluminum block unless you're talking about laying down over 1,000hp. Even a factory Cleve block should be good for 600-700hp. And an aftermarket iron one is going to be good for 1,200-1,500.