engine dies under high g forces.
Hello
I have the carter AFB 600. Under maximum braking and high G low speed turns over 90 degrees (like a 15 mph 90 degree) the engine dies.
Im guessing it dies because the fuel in the float bowls causes floats to close the needles as it gets sloshed around. Is this possible? what do you track guys do to stop this?
I know early model WWII fighters that were carbed could not maintain engine run in a -G situation such as the pilot flying level and then forcing the nose of the plane down into a dive...this would kill the engine for a few very long seconds (4 to 6 seconds) Heavy barking subjects the engine to the same -G forces of the fighter planes....Can I do anything about this?
-Gun
I have the carter AFB 600. Under maximum braking and high G low speed turns over 90 degrees (like a 15 mph 90 degree) the engine dies.
Im guessing it dies because the fuel in the float bowls causes floats to close the needles as it gets sloshed around. Is this possible? what do you track guys do to stop this?
I know early model WWII fighters that were carbed could not maintain engine run in a -G situation such as the pilot flying level and then forcing the nose of the plane down into a dive...this would kill the engine for a few very long seconds (4 to 6 seconds) Heavy barking subjects the engine to the same -G forces of the fighter planes....Can I do anything about this?
-Gun
i'd say as well. try raising the level in the bowls first.
At the same time check on your oil pressure when you turn corners like a madman. the oil and petrol in fueltank will do the same as the fuel in the carb. hide in a corner
At the same time check on your oil pressure when you turn corners like a madman. the oil and petrol in fueltank will do the same as the fuel in the carb. hide in a corner
Gun - I'd start by checking the fuel level. If it's low, the g's will chase the fuel away from one or both primary main jets depending on jet location and g direction. Maybe it's not low enough to let the jet(s) become completely uncovered, but perhaps by enough to run the mixture too lean to fire. I would think that a fuel level high enough to shut the inlet due to sloshing would tend to keep the engine running rather than shut it off (and would tend to be self-correcting in terms of re-opening the inlet as the fuel level dropped).
350k - check the carb hold-down bolts. I'm guessing that at least the bolt(s) on the driver's side are loose and the carb can tip to the right (as happens in a left turn) but not to the left (yet). When it tips, it leans out and may even die if you corner hard enough at a low enough engine rpm. Should only cost you a new gasket and a few minutes work.
Norm
350k - check the carb hold-down bolts. I'm guessing that at least the bolt(s) on the driver's side are loose and the carb can tip to the right (as happens in a left turn) but not to the left (yet). When it tips, it leans out and may even die if you corner hard enough at a low enough engine rpm. Should only cost you a new gasket and a few minutes work.
Norm
Okay ill check float level...Does anyone know for sure how they should sit?
I think I read that when the top of the carb is off and held upside down the floats should sit level with the carb body....Imaging the carb body being a flat disc If a second flat disc were placed on the floats the two disc would be parallel to each other..
Does that sound about right?
-Gun
I think I read that when the top of the carb is off and held upside down the floats should sit level with the carb body....Imaging the carb body being a flat disc If a second flat disc were placed on the floats the two disc would be parallel to each other..
Does that sound about right?
-Gun
Gun, I think that what you are describing is a good way to get the float adjustment close. However, it is still only ball-parking it. Since the carter carbs and the Edelbrock ones are virtually identical, check this link out. It is an owners manual that should be applicable to your Carter. Page 8 has the proper float adjustment procedures.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf
yeah Tyler thats the same carb....I remember doing that procedure some time ago.
So Norm thinks I should increase the volume of fuel in the float bowls if I reading his post correctly.
So with the carb body upside down the manual recommends 7/16" gap between the body and the float....Assuming I have a 7/16" gap now If I wanted to increase volume in the bowls I would bend the floats upwards right so that 7/16" gap would be less say 5/16".......That would boost fuel volume in the bowls right???
-Gun
So Norm thinks I should increase the volume of fuel in the float bowls if I reading his post correctly.
So with the carb body upside down the manual recommends 7/16" gap between the body and the float....Assuming I have a 7/16" gap now If I wanted to increase volume in the bowls I would bend the floats upwards right so that 7/16" gap would be less say 5/16".......That would boost fuel volume in the bowls right???
-Gun
Yeah. I agree, do that and it should help. You may also screw the idle mix screws in a hair (richen the idle mixture) and up the idle speed. I have this problem on my setup when I leave the idle below 1k. My vacuum at 750rpm is so weak that it can't keep the fuel in suspension, so during hard cornering in neutral it leans out and the engine tries to stall out. The idle speed/mix adjustments helped, since I haven't gotten around to adjusting the float level yet.
It will be hard to do on that carb,.....try connecting the front and rear bowls with rubber hose. Cut a chunk out of the the top in the middle so the bowls can still breathe though. or it could go lean. Sometime the gas will come flying forward, out the vent, and into the motor trying to kill it.


