Decided on the dura-blocks and the indasa paper to 400. Thanks rmodel.

OK after reading up a bit more it looks like I pretty much need to do the following with the specified grits.

1. 40 for shaping the fiberglass strand body fill
2. 80 to shaping regular body fill & and smoothing out fiberglass strand body fill
3. 220 to smooth and blend it
4. Guide coat time.. dusting each panel as I go along noting places needing additional fill. Fill where needed.
5. 220 to smooth and blend it again
6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 until happy.
7. @ this point hit car with the spray on high build primer/body fill
8. 400 to smooth
9. Guide coat time again.. dusting the entire car
10. 400 and then 600 here
11. Repeat 7 through 10 till finished.

Does this sound like a good path? Doing anything out of turn or 'over the top'? I'll basically have everyday for the entire 2 months of Jan and Feb to spend on this or until I'm satisfied. I'm kinda looking to do it right and since I have the time figured I should. The final prep & painting will be done at a professional shop who deal in high end restorations.

@ 600 grit should that be done by wet sanding or regular dry paper?

Any more suggestions would be great! Thanks for those so far.

Rob

 

I was looking at that product. Thought it would be a great 'finish coat' in the final sanding. Haven't decided on it yet though it nice to hear that someone likes it. Is 1 kit enough to do the entire car?

 

yeah its more than enough for one car probably more like 10 :P , its like finger print dust and it doesnt clog your paper like a cheap rattle can primer will.

 

You will need a cheese grater to knock the filler down. Anyway, this is how I do it.
Take it down to metal using stripper to remove the bulk and sanding whats left with 80, leaving no dark spots. If I find any dark spots, then they are ground out untill shiny metal is found. If you don't do this, then rest sure these will come back and haunt you. Often at this point you will find the rust has eaten thru and you will have to cut out the bad and graft in a new piece of metal. Once the body or panel is nice and shiney, and free of rust, I use etching primer to cover all the newley exposed metal (try to get it on just after the panel is cleaned. Then the filler goes on and a cheese grater is used to level it up, it will let you know the low spots also (may take two or three coats to level). Then 40 by hand (on a block) to just to knock it down and match. Then 80. Once the panels are leveled and cleaned, a very thin coat of polyester is applied to the exposed filler. Again its sanded smooth. The next step is the 2k. Usually a couple of heavy coats will do. Once dried I hit it with the old cheep rattle can semi black. Just a very light dusting. If the panels are right, one or two swipes with the block (400) and the black disappears, if not, it will let you know where more work is needed. I usually dust them a second time with the rattle can and remove it with 600. Once all the panels and body are blocked (twice) then they are cleaned and the sealer is applied. Now its time for the base/clear. Once cured, its time for more rubbing. To make it pop, a wet sanding with 2000 followed by a buffer will do the trick. Heres a photo of what I thought was a solid fender, once the paint was removed and the wire brush was applied, you can see the result. I used a wiz wheel to remove the bad (lay it on the new metal and mark it) and make a new piece for the graft. After some welding, wala, no more rust.

 

im following this thread also. im about to block my car. but what is 2K?

 

its primer thats 2 parts the paint and a hardner

or a single stage that is 2k same think 2 parts

old school enamels are just 1k, along with enamel sealers etc

 

Good tips and info 67 evil eleanor.
We painted our 66 3 weeks ago and it turned out pretty good for our first paint job.
I found 2 sites that are REALLY good and have professional painters who will help you out in the forums. Just do a search of past posts and 99% of your questions have been asked before by someone. If not, everyone is very helpful and will help a newbie with questions or problems.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/ GREAT SITE!!!
http://www.autobody101.com/ LOTS OF HOW TO ARTICLES

Hope this helps!

Our site:
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/index.html

 

The "Hotrodders" site is a good one. It seems their are several ways of doing a car. In production body shops a lot of these steps are passed by (and more use of the DA) and their in house time is cut by 2/3's. I am far from a professional painter and usually stick to doing my own work. This method has worked for me and I have had lasting good results. Its really not that hard and one can save thousands if they have a little knowledge and are not afraid to jump head first into it. The worst thing is having to sand it off and do it again. But what better way to learn.

 

I will only add to be careful about contamination of the surface, by oil from sources like skin, air from air compressors, dirty rags, etc.

Hope the car turns out great!

Y

 

Heres some photos of some of the panels in 2k. They were sprayed with etching primer, then the filler followed by a coat of polyester, then worked and given 2 coats of 2k primer. In the last photo you can see the importaince of block sanding. The first two have a dusting of the ole rattle can cheepo just to tell where the low spots are. If you have a high, then you will hit metal. Its hard to feel any imperfections but the block will tell on you if done correctly. The door will get some more work before the sealer goes on.