65 mustang suspension set up options
10-29-2008, 01:04 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: california
Posts: 18
65 mustang suspension set up options
Hey all! I have a 65 mustang with a 351 windsor. I just replaced the rear with the grab a trak 5 leafs and the poly racing shackles. There are air shocks on the rear. I want to get rid of these pieces of crap as they leak. Does anybody know which rear shocks would go well with the 5 leaf springs? Keep in mind i actually use my mustang and like to drive it hard.
Also. My front end suspension is shot. Im looking to get ripped off and do the shelby drop with the global west upper and lower control arms. Any suggestions on other options? are the global west products overkill?
what is the shelby quick steer?
Im going to be replacing idler arm and bracket inner/outer tie rods. Center link. strut rods....etc.
What is the best spring to put in the front with a heavy 351w?
any suggestions on parts/setup/anything would help. Lets chat!!!
Also. My front end suspension is shot. Im looking to get ripped off and do the shelby drop with the global west upper and lower control arms. Any suggestions on other options? are the global west products overkill?
what is the shelby quick steer?
Im going to be replacing idler arm and bracket inner/outer tie rods. Center link. strut rods....etc.
What is the best spring to put in the front with a heavy 351w?
any suggestions on parts/setup/anything would help. Lets chat!!!
10-29-2008, 02:31 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Ditch the air shocks. NO air shocks work well on a Mustang. The upper shock mounts are not designed to take any portion of the weight of the car. Running air shocks is a good way to push the shocks right through the upper mounts.
I'd recommend a full set of Edelbrock IAS shocks. They handle great and ride smooth. KYB Gas-A-Just shocks are another cheaper option, but they will be stiffer and reduce ride quality, which is already going to be an issue with your 5 leaf springs.
The Global West setup is a good one, but I prefer the more adjustable design of the TCP setup. And yes, both are overkill for most street driven cars. Most people would do fine with factory replacement control arms, Shelby drop, 15/16" front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and export brace.
Since you're replacing the idler arm, consider a roller idler from Opentracker. I've got one on the way for my 67. I've heard from several people that they help reduce steering effort (in m/s cars) and improve road feel and steering response. They're also pretty inexpensive compared to a stock replacement.
Do you have p/s (or a GT)? If so, you've already got the 16:1 steering box. The shelby quick steer setup would further increase steering gear ratio, but at the cost of driveability. I've also heard it affects the return-to-center function of the steering system, which is vital for a street car.
I'd recommend a full set of Edelbrock IAS shocks. They handle great and ride smooth. KYB Gas-A-Just shocks are another cheaper option, but they will be stiffer and reduce ride quality, which is already going to be an issue with your 5 leaf springs.
The Global West setup is a good one, but I prefer the more adjustable design of the TCP setup. And yes, both are overkill for most street driven cars. Most people would do fine with factory replacement control arms, Shelby drop, 15/16" front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and export brace.
Since you're replacing the idler arm, consider a roller idler from Opentracker. I've got one on the way for my 67. I've heard from several people that they help reduce steering effort (in m/s cars) and improve road feel and steering response. They're also pretty inexpensive compared to a stock replacement.
Do you have p/s (or a GT)? If so, you've already got the 16:1 steering box. The shelby quick steer setup would further increase steering gear ratio, but at the cost of driveability. I've also heard it affects the return-to-center function of the steering system, which is vital for a street car.
10-30-2008, 02:36 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: california
Posts: 18
and yes I hate the air shocks they are already cracking the support. I will have to fab some reinforcement plates. Any preference on sub frame connectors? do they make a difference? what about a rear sway bar?
10-30-2008, 09:02 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
They have a roller idler for p/s. Check out their website
Sub frame connectors are great, but you should have an export brace and monte carlo bar first to help tie the front end together.
A rear sway bar is generally overkill for a street car and not great for driveability. Since you already have 5 leaf springs, it would make the rear of your car extremely stiff and cause the car to be very tail-happy. If your roads are very well paved (rare here in CA) and you drive the car very hard, you may consider a 1-1/8" front and small (5/8"?) rear bar, but otherwise I'd recommend sticking with the 15/16" front bar and no rear bar.
560-580lb springs are fine for most sporty drivers. They're much stiffer than stock, but not so stiff that they'll rattle your teeth loose. 620lb springs are very stiff. Most people I've talked to that have installed them wish they had gone with the 560's. 750lb would be nearly undrivable outside of a track.
If you're going to tear things apart, I'd recommend a set of roller perches. I recently broke one of my new Edelbrock shocks, and I partially blame my rather unpliable rubber-bushing spring perches.
I just picked up a pair of roller perches from Daze and I've got a roller idler and a pair of 560lb 1" drop springs on the way from OpenTracker. Along with some new UCA's and a planned Shelby drop, I hope to get everything knocked out sometime in the next couple weeks. I'll make a satisfaction review post when I'm done
Sub frame connectors are great, but you should have an export brace and monte carlo bar first to help tie the front end together.
A rear sway bar is generally overkill for a street car and not great for driveability. Since you already have 5 leaf springs, it would make the rear of your car extremely stiff and cause the car to be very tail-happy. If your roads are very well paved (rare here in CA) and you drive the car very hard, you may consider a 1-1/8" front and small (5/8"?) rear bar, but otherwise I'd recommend sticking with the 15/16" front bar and no rear bar.
560-580lb springs are fine for most sporty drivers. They're much stiffer than stock, but not so stiff that they'll rattle your teeth loose. 620lb springs are very stiff. Most people I've talked to that have installed them wish they had gone with the 560's. 750lb would be nearly undrivable outside of a track.
If you're going to tear things apart, I'd recommend a set of roller perches. I recently broke one of my new Edelbrock shocks, and I partially blame my rather unpliable rubber-bushing spring perches.
I just picked up a pair of roller perches from Daze and I've got a roller idler and a pair of 560lb 1" drop springs on the way from OpenTracker. Along with some new UCA's and a planned Shelby drop, I hope to get everything knocked out sometime in the next couple weeks. I'll make a satisfaction review post when I'm done
10-31-2008, 12:21 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: california
Posts: 18
im leaning toward the handling aspect. BUt i checked out opentracker, and ill probabaly get the roller idler arm from them. I wonder how they're uca and lca's hold up, and if they have a warranty for them like global west. I want to do the global west set up because of the warranty and I know a few other satisfied customers. my front end is a little heavy with the 351w. should I step up to the 580 front coil or settle for the 560's? by the way my pic of my stang was taken in slo near los osos! I used to live off of jeffery near bishops peak...loved it down there
11-04-2008, 05:49 PM
#8
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: California
Posts: 114
If you add sub frame connectors you might want to look at Maiers racing. They connect in 4 locations bolt or weld( I welded) and are not seen unless you look under the car. I am real impressed how they have stiffened up my 65 even though I havent drive it much at all as it is in paint. They also fit real well.
11-04-2008, 05:54 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 3,485
wait for aussie to get in here.
unless the roads are COMPLETELY flat, no bumps, pot holes, cracks etc etc like every road out there besides race tracks, the stiffer the spring doesnt mean the better handling!!!!
when you have a wicked stiff spring, when you hit a bump or such, the car will **for lack of better word** "hop" around, and you will loose traction. saying it very basicly.
i think a good street setup would be around 500# front springs, shelby drop, and roller perches, a good shock. 4.5-5 leafs out back with around mid eye for lowering, a good size front swaybar
i have heard DO NOT use the shelby quick steer kit on a street car, dont know why though
unless the roads are COMPLETELY flat, no bumps, pot holes, cracks etc etc like every road out there besides race tracks, the stiffer the spring doesnt mean the better handling!!!!
when you have a wicked stiff spring, when you hit a bump or such, the car will **for lack of better word** "hop" around, and you will loose traction. saying it very basicly.
i think a good street setup would be around 500# front springs, shelby drop, and roller perches, a good shock. 4.5-5 leafs out back with around mid eye for lowering, a good size front swaybar
i have heard DO NOT use the shelby quick steer kit on a street car, dont know why though
11-04-2008, 08:26 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
As I said earlier, the Shelby quick-steer setup reduces the return-to-center function of the steering. This is very important on a street car, but not so much on a race car.
I just installed (literally, last night) 560lb 1" drop springs, new UCA's, roller perches, and did the Shelby drop on my 67fb. I haven't had a lot of time to play with it, but so far I'm very happy with everything. The car seems to stay much flatter in the corners and is more willing to go where I point it rather than roll and understeer. I'll post a review in a day or two once I get it properly aligned and tested.
I just installed (literally, last night) 560lb 1" drop springs, new UCA's, roller perches, and did the Shelby drop on my 67fb. I haven't had a lot of time to play with it, but so far I'm very happy with everything. The car seems to stay much flatter in the corners and is more willing to go where I point it rather than roll and understeer. I'll post a review in a day or two once I get it properly aligned and tested.