PROJECT -My New/Old Ride
#102
Ok, just read the whole thing.
"The wheels are 16" and about 8-ish in width but have a very positive offset. (the hub mating surface is more toward the outside of the wheel) They require a 1.25" thick hub spacer/adapter on all 4 or they will hit the a-arms and leaf-springs of an older stang. You can get the 1.25" billet aluminum spacers at just about any high-performance and custom wheel/tire store, or you can get steel ones from a 4x4 company called Teraflex. Topline, Spidertrax, and various other manufacturers have these billet T6 aircraft aluminum hub adapters. The prices range from 40-75 bucks per adapter. I've been using them for years on the street, for off-road and racing, and they are very strong and never loosen up or have issues as long as you use an impact wrench and "torque-stick" when installing them. Once installed they become part of/integral to the hub of your car."
Sums it up.
Can you or someone else explain the benefits/drawbacks of steel vs. aluminum spacers?
Also, I would still like to know what size tires you have and whether or not you did the Shelby drop?
Thanks, and great work
"The wheels are 16" and about 8-ish in width but have a very positive offset. (the hub mating surface is more toward the outside of the wheel) They require a 1.25" thick hub spacer/adapter on all 4 or they will hit the a-arms and leaf-springs of an older stang. You can get the 1.25" billet aluminum spacers at just about any high-performance and custom wheel/tire store, or you can get steel ones from a 4x4 company called Teraflex. Topline, Spidertrax, and various other manufacturers have these billet T6 aircraft aluminum hub adapters. The prices range from 40-75 bucks per adapter. I've been using them for years on the street, for off-road and racing, and they are very strong and never loosen up or have issues as long as you use an impact wrench and "torque-stick" when installing them. Once installed they become part of/integral to the hub of your car."
Sums it up.
Can you or someone else explain the benefits/drawbacks of steel vs. aluminum spacers?
Also, I would still like to know what size tires you have and whether or not you did the Shelby drop?
Thanks, and great work
#104
It's a rather special square drive "extension" used with an impact tool. Somehow - I don't really know how - it limits the torque applied to a fastener. I suspect that shop air pressure and maybe tolerances in the square drive ends has something to do with it. They come in various torque ratings
http://www.torquestick.com/cart/customer/home.php
Norm
http://www.torquestick.com/cart/customer/home.php
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-23-2009 at 05:23 AM.
#105
+1 for the torque-sticks, adapter descrition, etc. Thanks guys, you're right on the money...
As far as tire sizes and fitment it's "tried and true". I have 225/50/16's in the rear and 205/50/16 in the front and they are PERFECT. Zero rubbing issues but I would not go any larger on the front with my ride-height. None of my fenders have been rolled. I could definitely go larger in the rear, both taller and wider without problems.
As far as tire sizes and fitment it's "tried and true". I have 225/50/16's in the rear and 205/50/16 in the front and they are PERFECT. Zero rubbing issues but I would not go any larger on the front with my ride-height. None of my fenders have been rolled. I could definitely go larger in the rear, both taller and wider without problems.
Last edited by bwkelley76; 01-23-2009 at 01:39 PM.
#106
205 and 225 are exactly what I wanted to do anyway. Great news. Glad to hear it doesnt rub in the back. From your pics it looked like it could. I know with a lot of modern Ford factory wheels they run smaller spacers in the back.
#107
Body work is coming along nicely. No rust or cancer found, sanded down to metal in most places, floated a thin layer of filler on r/r quarter and back panel. Things were a little wavy but nothing major found yet.
#108
HEADER SWAP...
Swapped out the Flow-Tech full-length 1.5" primary headers for Hedman Mid-Length 1 5/8" primary headers. Had to extend and reshape the head-pipes with mandrel bent tubing.
RESULTS: Gained over 2-3" of ground clearance, no more bottoming out on speed-bumps and driveways, sounds much deeper throatier, better power and response, much happier with this setup...
RESULTS: Gained over 2-3" of ground clearance, no more bottoming out on speed-bumps and driveways, sounds much deeper throatier, better power and response, much happier with this setup...