I am going to be replacing my radiator in my 67 with a 289. I am getting a 3 row radiator. Does anyone know how much antifreeze and water is needed to fill it?

 

Hmmm.... I just did the same thing with my '68. Couldn't tell you. <---- lots'a help huh?

What I can tell you is be carefull of what type of paint you use on the radiator (if you choose to paint it). Use only special radiator paint, or a laquer based paint. Epoxies and hi-temp paints will wreck your core.


Oh, and if you were using a fan shroud, you will need to get a smaller spacer for your fan. (Something to think about)

Good luck!

 

you could always go with a sweet looking aluminum rad..their about 189.00

 

Where can you get an aluminum radiator for $189? The cheapest that I have found is around $300.

thanx in advance

 

You need to put in a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze mixture. Usually, it will take about two gallons of this mixture to fill the rad. Take off the cap, and keep adding while the engine is running. When it reaches the top don't assume it is full. Put the cap back on and let it reach 180 degrees (or whatever you have for a thermostat) then shut down the engine, and go have 3 beers. Come back out and start the engine and let her run until the thermostat opens. Shut her down again, and go drink three more beers. When you are finally satisfied that the engine is cool and you are inebriated, take the cap off and see if it is full. If not, then repeat the above.

 

e-bay

 

Not sure what to make of what you're saying here...

Why would you want to paint a new radiator? The times I've cleaned up an old engine bay and the top of the radiator needed paint, I've always used the same black Krylon as in the rest of the engine bay. Never cracks or peels, and never causes a problem with the function of the radiator itself. But if one did choose a high-temp paint - how would it have an adverse effect on the core?

Secondly, why would a shroud require a shorter fan spacer? The fan should spin about an inch (or a little less) from the radiator regardless of if you have a shroud or not. The two have nothing to do with each other.

The important thing to remember about a shroud is that the back half of the fan should be exposed. Do not use one of the 4" deep shrouds that completely encases the fan.

 

I just got back from golf to read the forums. Yeah, Dan66 is correct in every aspect of what he said. Krylon paint works great. And, there is no need to use a shorter spacer on the fan unless you do get a 4 inch shroud. Mine is a 2 inch and bolted right up with the back of the fan sticking out like it should.

 

Thanks Soaring. But my point was there's no need for a shorter spacer even if one uses a deep shroud.

The problem with these 4" deep shrouds is they perpetuate a myth. The myth that an enclosed fan cools better. Look at any cool-running new car. Its fan will be half exposed. The fan needs to be as close as it possibly can be to the radiator (without touching it). The shroud then needs to encase only the front half of the fan (leaving the rear half exposed). If one were to use a deeper shroud and in turn a shorter spacer to keep the rear of the fan exposed - it's then been moved too far away from the radiator to be effective. Basically - these super-deep shrouds are useless.

Where most fan shrouds fall short is the way they attach to the radiator. They all tend to leave big gaps. The secret is to seal them (to the radiator) as best as possible. I used fiberglass to fill in these gaps, and then foam insulation tucked in to what was left. Now, every last bit of air being pulled by my fan is coming through my radiator rather than from around it. I'm alarmed if my temp gauge even reaches the halfway mark.

 

Good point. Yeah, my fan comes close to the rad and the 2 inch shroud works just great for me. Also good points about sealing all the cracks. I didn't do that, and it still runs cool.