^^^ Troll !!! ^^^

 

Yes...Troll, and he's being watched very closely. He's been warned to keep it respectable....

 

Thanks again JamesW.

 

captain, i detect large quantities of ******ry in this sector

 

You dumbass, im not stupid enough to weld with oil in it!!!! I drained it first! Did you not READ the first post? However, I don't care what you do, unless you let the engine sit for a few days with the drain plug out, there will still be oil in the pan. Gah, im not some friggin backyard shadetree mechanic that doesn't know what the hell he's doing lol.

Also, to those who suggested changing the pan, I would, or pull it and take it to work and have it TIG welded, but like I said, pulling the oil pan off my specific combo requires removal of the engine. If it ever comes out again (which im sure it will) I will probably replace it then, but until that happens, its getting fixed while still in the car. As far as replacing it with a stock pan... I was originally going to use my stock one, but it wouldn't clear the windage tray, so thats why I had to use the 8 qt.

 

Hey Jimbo. Go back and read what the idiot wrote about welding his oil pan with it still in the car and full of oil while it dripped. You haven't warned me about anything. I am keeping it respectable in the fact that I am warning others to not do stupid stuff like this idiot.

 

I didn't do anything stupid, I drained the oil before welding on it... I don't know what your deal is, but your making me look like a fool when I did nothing to constitute being called one. You have no right in calling me an idiot.

 

Well... drained the oil again this morning and let it sit with no plug for a few hours. I went to the store and got some JB weld, and came back and sanded, prepped, and cleaned the pan to rid it of any dirt, paint, or oil. I mixed it up and spread it on, and now its sitting and curing. Tomorrow morning I will sand it to smooth it up some, and then throw on a coat of paint and pour the oil back in. Should be good to go then.

 

Tyler, it is perfectly normal to weld an oil pan while on the car. You did it the right way by draining out all the oil (there is no oil vapor to ignite) and I'm surprised the weld didn't do it. If it, God forbid, happens again, drain all the oil, jack the car up so the repair area is not the lowest point, and preheat the area with a torch (even a plumbing torch works). That will carbonize any remaining oil and clean the area. Then grind the spot clean and weld or JB away.

Good luck, I hope you fixed it.

 

Well, first of all, welding on the pan with it on the engine even with the oil drained can still be a bit dangerous. It's not the oil that burns, but the vapors(which can be highly flammable). That said, with the pan in place if there is a flash fire, you're protected under the car if everything is sealed up, but it would be a good idea to at least pull the breather filter just in case it does pop on you, at least it won't blow the breather filter media apart(the pressure of a small explosion will mostly just escape from there). It'd be a good idea to make sure no one is standing over the engine looking at it while you weld, or they might be in for a shock. But as long as there's somewhere for the pressure to escape if a fire starts everything should be fine.

If you do change the pan, I'd recommend a Canton baffled 5qt. It's listed as a 5 qt, but the oil sits lower than stock, so it will hold 7qts and have the oil at the same level as 5qts in a stock pan. I imagine their 7qt pans hold something more like 10. With a windage tray and 7qts in one of their "5qt" baffled pans, it should be all the oil control you'd ever need.

Of course, if you already have a good pan then I'd keep trying to fix it, since replacing a good pan isn't cheap. What prevents you from removing the pan without pulling the engine? I can get mine off my 302 if I drop the cross brace, dc the steering linkage and struggle with it. It's not easy, but it can be done. Do you have a r&p unit in the way, or does it sit differently with adjustable mounts?