hi all,

changed intake manifold 2 months back. was arrogant enough to not torque it right. car was running crappy. was hunting down gasket leak at carb as it was idling rough. then it overheated. filled up water.
then i removed carb and torqued 2 bolts of intake that were loose ...:-(

this morning same thing as I wanted to leave to a friend to change leaf springs. i checked on the oil. oil is full of white gunk->water

I'm not impressed. I'm about to cry ... what now ?
leave the car as is til february (i can't look at that feckn thing anymore) or change oil and get new intake manifold gaskets? i pray to god that head gaskets are not blown as well although I really don't care anymore. I'm fit to drive that thing to a scrapyard

 

Dont be so hard, cars are mechanical, they break...especially classics
just go buy the gaskets and change the oil and see what happens from there,
if your head gasket is blown, then you may even want to fix that now, no where near as bad as taking it to the junkyard =O

 

You have my condolences. I hope it's nothing more than the gasket(s).

 

Well, there is a better chance it is the intake gaskets than head gaskets if that makes you feel any better. Three biggest reasons for intake leaks: 1. wrong or no sealant used, 2. incorrect torque or torque sequence 3. Gasket shift (mainly trying to use cork seals front and rear instead of rtv.

Another thing to be proud of, my company is investing heavily in Guinness with a new brewery starting construction near you. That's more Guinness for everyone!!!

 

Kalli, calm down man, it'll all be a'ight! Drain the oil anl leave the plug out. Pul the intake and valve covers. There will be milky crap on the inside of the valve covers, so clean all that out with some brake cleaner. There may also be some in the lifter valley so spray it out with the brake cleaner as well. Be sure you left the oil plug out so the stuff can run out the bottom. Let it all dry good and reinstall the plug. Then pour a qt. of clean oil all over the lifters, and anything else you cleaned with brake cleaner, such as rocker arms or pushrods. You don't want to start it up with any dry parts. After you do that, put the intake and valve covers on with new gaskets, and for goodness sake, torque them this time. You should be good to go. I would recommend running the car for a couple of days and then changing the oil again.

 

Fake,

If your company needs a liason to travel to Ireland for "taste testing" purposes. Please let me know.

Kalli,

Stick with it. We've all been there. I remember when I first bought my 6 cyl 67. I didn't and still dont know too much, and went to change the oil. Ten minute job, right? Well the previous 40 years had not treated the oil pan plug area very well. It was so mangled that I decided to just swap the pan. Getting that rear oil seal in while it is 95 degrees out, 100% humidity in southern Louisiana was NOT fun. I swear I was about to push that thing to the corner and sell it as is. Eventually it popped right in, and the whole car went back together great.

If you are really pissed, maybe just take a few days off.

 

i agree, its only maybe 2 hours of work for intake gaskets

 

Just take a step back, take a day and regroup. It's not that bad.

Come on Man...think !!! Your not going to JUNK the COOLEST car in all of Ireland ...Are you ?

 

c'mon Kalli,, This is no worse than all the other pain in the butt things you have had to do to the car.. Right!.. And it should only take you a couple of hours start to finish,, The worse part is draining the coolant.. or at least most of it so you can pull the intake.. It will be ok man.. Just keep with it, get a could of the fore-menioned alcoholic beverages to help sooth the situation and get to it..

 

I have rarely torqued my intakes, just by feel, but one of the biggest mistakes is using the cork end gaskets or using the felpro teflon gaskets. I did that once and it wasnt water in the oil but when I took a hard turn I would get a huge cloud of smoke out the tail pipe.

use a good felpro or mr gasket intake set, glue them down to the heads, I usually use a bit of silicone around the water ports, use silicone on the ends and get some 5/16 studs (4) and drop the intake straight onto to studs (with dist out) then tighten or torque in the proper torque sequence I usually do it in three steps, if you get the right length studs keep them in place and make sure to use flat washers under the bolts/nuts.

If your getting water in the oil its the water passeges leaking IF its the intake leaking. Its an easy fix, about an hours work if your experienced, a wet/dry vac really helps to suck water out of the passages and any gasket scrapings out of where they shouldn't be.

My preference for sealers are permatex high tack for gaskets and permatex ultra blue or grey for the silicone. Make sure the int is not warped especially if used an if you have had excessive milling of heads or decking of the block you may have to take some off the intake.