coda618

Brother, when I saw the first picture of the 2X4, I was sure this story was going to end badly. Please get yourself (rent or otherwise) a proper hoist when reinstalling. Or at least a nice big tree limb. I would not trust that set up again. Next time you may not get any cracking or bowing as a warning. It may just snap. By the way, it looks like the 2X4 is connected to the garage door supports. They are typically attached into a stud with just a lag screw. Even though you doubled up on the 2X4s the whole shebang may just rip out of the ceiling, which would likely rip the whole garage door down as well. There goes the paint job.


Plus, when re-installing, a proper hoist will allow you to maneuver the engine into the bay much easier. Also, a loadleveler is a big help. Remember, you will have all fresh new paint at that point.

Good luck.

coda618

To remove the equalizer bar, you need to unbolt the pivot bracket from the frame. Then the bar and bracket will lift at the frame side and slide off the block stud. At least that is how my old standard 67 was. Not sure if your year is any different. I wouldn't think so.

I know you got out already, just though i'd mention for the install (as above in reverse). Plus, get a new set of bushing while its out. Like 10 bucks at NPD.

fakesnakes

Using that doubled up 2x4 as an engine hoist is similar to the outcome you get when someone says, "Hold my beer and watch this!" Never a good outcome and sure to qualify for a Darwin Award. Unfortunately, most Darwin Awards are handed out posthumously.

A doubled up 2x4 with an unsupported span of 10 feet is rated at about 320 lbs/square inch in the middle of the span. Your engine and tranny together are north of 500 lbs. Any way you look at it, the math is not on your side.

guybored

Thanks for the pointers and heads up. Now that you mention it, it was something I should of not done. Luckly nothing went wrong but I am going to have to hopefully rent if not buy a proper hoist to install the motor don't want to have any thing bad happen when I am almost finished working on there. I am trying to smooth the bay a little and I am curious to find out how most of you did it to get the area between the yellow smooth.

Joe67

need a better pic, but if its rusted through and you are decently good and fabricating things you could patch with sheet metal, weld, and grind....

if its not all the way through you could either cut it out and patch it, or you can grind it down and use fiberglass if you dont mind that kind of thing

guybored

I am cleaning up and smoothing the bay and I was wondering how are you guys doing it on the shock towers. Did you guys weld over and grind it down or did you just put bondo over it? I think the bondo will eventually lift off or crack, but I don't know. Its not that bad what I have run into, lucky me. But it is still a little hard since I am no expert in welding.

guybored

Time for an update I have been working a couple of hours on the car when ever I have a chance. Mostly on New Years Eve and today. Still wondering how you did it to smooth the shock towers? I am also debating if I should fix the part where the battery goes the same way or smooth it out. Since I plan on going efi I will have to replace the battery to the trunk. What do you suggest? I can finally work on that since I just got some metal to work with. I just go another offer a running 91 cougar with 5.0, don't know much about it but for $400 not bad. Just gotta wait for my brother in law to get the guys number. Is a mustang engine harness the same as the cougar? Another thing I have wondered is what should I do first paint the bay or install the engine to see how everything is going to fit. That way I could make some braces, modifications for the radiator to fit? I am thinking I should install the engine first mock everything up then remove and paint. Double work but just in case I gotta weld or move something. Didn't find much rust to my surprise, well I don't think its much.

Carlos Pineiro

There's enough cracked shock towers out there that I believe (JMO) that Ford should have designed it better. When I was restoring my engine bay, I had braces welded on both towers. It was quick and EZ since there was no motor in the way, and they weren't so big that it added too much weight. No gas line to worry about welding next to, either.

Oh, and bondo will crack for sure.

Looking good so far. Thanks for the pics.

CP

coda618

In teh corners by the tops of the shock towers, where ther is surface rust, I use wire wheels for my drill from HD. Black and Decker makes them. Use the small corse one. Really eats into the rust well. The bottom of your shock tower is another story. It should be addressed now, while the engine is out. The way it is now is a safety issue. If you hit a significant bump, pot holes etc. the whole bottom of that shock tower is likely to rip out, which will significantly change the alignment and possibly cause you to lose control of the car. That is structural, get it fixed. As for the battery, I would fix that as well. But it is mor asthetic than structural.

GET THE SHOCK TOWER FIXED!

guybored

Carlos you wouldn't happen to have some pics on hand. I will also fix the towers since there is room, and it is a safety concern. Will 16 gauge be good or should I get something thicker.
I had payed someone to fix the towers a while ago, I just noticed that all he did was tack some thin metal on there I could bend it with my hands. It was only held on with about 4-6 small tacks. Last time I take it to get repaired, I am going to start doing the work myself. lesson learned.