Ok, i ordered the Pertronix ignitor 2. Since i just found out about the coil only getting 6 volts, where else can i get a 12 volt switch in the engine compartment. Does the alternator BAT. always have power, or only when you turn the ignition on? Thanks for all the help!!

 

Here is an article I got earlier today, however I still cant figure out what a "resistor wire" is. Is the resistance built into the wire?

http://va-mustang.com/articles.php?articleId=3

help!


Where do I get 12 volts from?

 

Buy you books, send you to school, and you still can't read. Go back and read the entire article, then wire it up as shown. Yes, the pink wire is the resistor wire. We don't have a ballast resistor, just the wire.

 

Yes, i read the article, but is the an alternitive to running a wire all the way to the switch?

 

Just the positive wire to the heater and the voltage regulator, but that is not a good source for "switched" 12 volt source. It really doesn't take all that much time to run a wire through the firewall and attach it to the ignition switch. If it is not a switched 12 volt source, you will run your battery down. So, you only want a switched 12 source, which is at the ignition switch. Now, quit arguing, and geterdun.

 

Yes you can, but...

It's more work and more stuff to go wrong, but... you can run a 6V-9V relay if you don't want to mess with the wiring.
The wire now going to the positive side of the coil would now go to power the relay. A lead off the positive lug at the starter solenoid would run through a fuse (or circuit breaker) to the relay contact tip. Then the output side of the relay contact tip would be connected to the positive side of the coil. Hook up a ground wire from the relay coil and your done.

Take about the same amount of time as correctly running a new wire from the ignition switch, and would add one more "point of failure", but it would work.

One other note a 6V relay coil is going to run a little hot depending on how clean your wiring is and what your ignition switch voltage is under running conditions. a 1/4W resistor in line to the relay coil would help in longevity. The resistance value to this 1/4W resistor will depend on your voltage and current on the original lead from the ignition switch to the coil.
Use Watts = Amperage x Voltage to figure this correctly, and do it under load.

Clear as mud?!!!

If it was me, I'd unwrap the harness remove the resistor wire and replace it with a 14 gauge length that is the same color as the "non" resistor portion of the circuit. Then tape the whole thing back up to look factory. Wouldn't take me more than two or three years to get it done

 

Talk about CORNFUSING! But, if pink is not your color, then yeah, you can rip that sucker out and replace it with another color. That just takes more time, and less time to drink beer.

 

Ok, but does the Flame Thrower 2 coil use 6 volts or 12? If so, i will just remove the pink wire, Where do you remove it at?

 

For those of you installing your Pertronix II, you may want to read this article:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...itor_ignition/

Looks to me like they are using the stock wiring.
Running an "externally resisted" coil at 12V+ is not a good idea you will eventually ruin it.
If your coil has less than 3 Ohms resistance between the two small wire studs (these are the primary posts) then you have an externally resisted coil and it needs the stock wires hooked up like it shows in this article.
If all else fails wire it exactly as per the instructions that come with the Pertronix unit.

I've installed hundreds of the original style Pertronix on industrial engines. Seen very few failures over the years. Usually it was a vibration issue, or someone messing with it.
Just in case the instructions don't tell you (I'm pretty sure they do). Make sure to use brass feeler gauges to set the gap. Pulling a metal feeler gauge through will magnetize the pickup and ruin it.