Differences between Blocks of different years.
What is the difference between a 302 made is 68 to the 70's, 80's, etc.
I have a 68 302 engine block that I want to replace. As I look through craigslist or a junkyard, I want to know what to look for.
But in a sense, I could swap parts onto the engine as well?
If I find another engine that is not rebuilt and its a 76 or something, and place my 68 heards, manifold and carb and work?
Thanks for the help!!!
I have a 68 302 engine block that I want to replace. As I look through craigslist or a junkyard, I want to know what to look for.
But in a sense, I could swap parts onto the engine as well?
If I find another engine that is not rebuilt and its a 76 or something, and place my 68 heards, manifold and carb and work?
Thanks for the help!!!
Some blocks are roller cam blocks. Some have four bolt mains. Some are just Janers. Some cranks from different years have different balances (28oz or 50oz).
I am not smart enough to remember all the details.
I am not smart enough to remember all the details.
I am lookin on craigslist. A guy has a "Crown Vic" Long Block 302 Roller Engine.
Woud this type of engine work with a C4 transmission?
Would it fit inside the 65 mustang engine bay?
Stupid Question, What is a roller engine?
Woud this type of engine work with a C4 transmission?
Would it fit inside the 65 mustang engine bay?
Stupid Question, What is a roller engine?
Yes it would work, although you'd need to transfer over your timing cover/accessories, oil pan, and intake/carb. Depending on the year, you might also need to use the 351W firing order.
A roller motor means that the block is designed for use with a roller camshaft. Instead of flat bottom (aka flat tappet) lifters riding on a cast cam, the lifters have rollers on the bottom that ride on a steel cam. It allows for steeper lobe ramps, increasing power and reliability without sacrificing driveability. It's just a better design.
A roller motor means that the block is designed for use with a roller camshaft. Instead of flat bottom (aka flat tappet) lifters riding on a cast cam, the lifters have rollers on the bottom that ride on a steel cam. It allows for steeper lobe ramps, increasing power and reliability without sacrificing driveability. It's just a better design.
What Star said plus...
Roller lifters and roller valve rockers have less friction (rolling friction vs. sliding friction). This helps gain a little power and minimize parasitic power loss. These are also less likely to wear as fast due to additives being removed from modern oil. Many guys are having issues with flattening out flat tappet cams due to oil problems where roller cams due not have that issue as much.
Roller lifters and roller valve rockers have less friction (rolling friction vs. sliding friction). This helps gain a little power and minimize parasitic power loss. These are also less likely to wear as fast due to additives being removed from modern oil. Many guys are having issues with flattening out flat tappet cams due to oil problems where roller cams due not have that issue as much.
Just to clarify...you need to match the flex plate balance with the crankshaft balance with the harmonic balancer balance (all three will need to either be 0, 28, or 50oz). I do not know about which one specifically you need for a c4 or what balance your crank and harmonic balancer currently are, but you need to make sure you match all three components correctly or it will vibrate like hell and the engine will not last long.
What is the OZ of a flexplate for a 68?
So for a note,
Based on balancing I need to use the 89 Ford Block, I can transfer from my 68 to the 89,
My intake manifold, Carb, and distrubutor, Exhaust Manifold, Alternator, Fan, etc.
Thanks!
So for a note,
Based on balancing I need to use the 89 Ford Block, I can transfer from my 68 to the 89,
My intake manifold, Carb, and distrubutor, Exhaust Manifold, Alternator, Fan, etc.
Thanks!
Your 68 has the 28oz balance. An AOD flexplate should work with the C4. With the later engine you will need to plug the dipstick tube hole in the block. You may also have to put on the fuel pump eccentric, the later engines are FI and dont need it. I've seen some with it, and some without.
Oh yeah, you may need a different balancer or a different crank pulley. I believe the 68 uses a 3-bolt crank pulley, they switched to 4 bolt in 69 or so which is what the later engines have.
ANOTHER edit. You can use your distributor, but you'll need to change to a steel cam gear. Roller cams are steel and will chew up the cast iron gear you have now.
Oh yeah, you may need a different balancer or a different crank pulley. I believe the 68 uses a 3-bolt crank pulley, they switched to 4 bolt in 69 or so which is what the later engines have.
ANOTHER edit. You can use your distributor, but you'll need to change to a steel cam gear. Roller cams are steel and will chew up the cast iron gear you have now.
Last edited by Gary H; Jan 14, 2009 at 09:31 AM.
Ok. Via your comments above. The flexplate makes sense. I can order that or something. The Fuel Pump, What do you mean by the eccentric, via the FI? I should beable to just screw it in and be done with it, right? The crank pulley makese sense.
The Tube Hole dip stick usually screws into the Timing Chaing Cover, on the 89 there is no Hole for this? As for the distributor, I have purchased a rebuilt one from autozone this year. The Gear which is on it, do you think is steel?
Lastly, Hypathetically, Could I take the roller cam out and place the 68 Cam in with the liffters? and place the 68 heads on the engine? and... the 68 intake manifold? So would that screw up the engine alot?
The Tube Hole dip stick usually screws into the Timing Chaing Cover, on the 89 there is no Hole for this? As for the distributor, I have purchased a rebuilt one from autozone this year. The Gear which is on it, do you think is steel?
Lastly, Hypathetically, Could I take the roller cam out and place the 68 Cam in with the liffters? and place the 68 heads on the engine? and... the 68 intake manifold? So would that screw up the engine alot?


