Differences between Blocks of different years.

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Jan 16, 2009 | 04:47 PM

#21

mstg007

Thread Starter

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 297

From: INDY

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary H

No, you can just knock out the roll pin and take the gear off. Put on a new one and put the pin back in
http://www.jegs.com/p/Ford+Racing/750406/10002/-1

I THINK you need the .467 diameter one, not sure. You might have to drill the roll pin holes in the new gear. If you dont want to do it, any machine shop can take care of it cheap. If they want more than $20, find another.

Use the 68 timing cover.

Gary After all the questions I have asked! You are right! I need to order a steel gear online or ebay. However, How can I find the right size besides using a ruller?

ebay!
http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=ste...gear&_osacat=0

Thanks again Gary!

mustang monthly

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar...ild/index.html

Last edited by mstg007; Jan 16, 2009 at 05:57 PM. Reason: link

Jan 17, 2009 | 06:38 AM

#22

Norm Peterson

6th Gear Member

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 7,635

From: state of confusion

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstg007

However, How can I find the right size besides using a ruller?

Best to use vernier calipers for measuring ID. If there's any chamfer on the hole it would be very easy to get the wrong measurement using a ruler. Anything that can measure inside to ±0.010" should be good enough to tell between 0.467" and 0.531".

Norm

Jan 17, 2009 | 09:51 AM

#23

mstg007

Thread Starter

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 297

From: INDY

Thanks guys!

I was comparing the drive gears on the following sites:

1989 Drive Gear
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...ributor%20gear

1968 Drive Gear
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...ributor%20gear

Should I get a Drive gear based on the 89 or the 68 to work with this 89 engine?

And I have a feeling your are going to tell me that it does not matter? lol

Thanks for the help

Last edited by mstg007; Jan 17, 2009 at 09:58 AM.

Jan 19, 2009 | 11:34 AM

#24

Gary H

4th Gear Member

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 1,080

From: Chandler, Az

The only thing that matters is the distributor shaft diameter. Take a 1/2 in. open end wrench and see if it fits over the shaft. it should fit easily over a .467 shaft, but not over the .531.

Jan 19, 2009 | 04:21 PM

#25

mstg007

Thread Starter

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 297

From: INDY

Got it! Thanks! I have a .467.
Gary Thanks again for all your help! I might have more... But I appreciate your time!

Jan 19, 2009 | 09:38 PM

#26

mstg007

Thread Starter

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 297

From: INDY

I want to share my Assembly task.

Again, everyone, thanks for your help on this! I can not wait to rebuild this thing!

Notes:

Assembly of engine

Parts from '68 you want to use:
- Timing Cover / Accessories
- Oil Pan
- Intake Manifold
- Carborator
- **** Use 351W Firing Order (MAYBE) Sparkplugs

Use all other parts from the '89 Engine.
Notes: Use the same (We have it all)
- Balancer
- Crank Shaft
- FlexPlate / Flywheel

- Dipstick
- Plug the dipstick tube hole in the block.

- Fuel Pump
- Place the fuel Pump eccentric on the CAM.

- Pulley needs to be a 4 bolt, (Need to center and drill 4 Bolts to match harmonic balancer)

- Distributor
- Change / Swap Iron Gear on Distributor with a Steel Gear. (Shaft is 0.467)
- Place the Prytonic Ignitor, is you have, After the engine starts. Leave Points on until the engine works.

- Heads
- Do not use the '68 Heads (they have differ Length Push rods)

Jan 21, 2009 | 11:29 AM

#27

Gary H

4th Gear Member

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 1,080

From: Chandler, Az

A couple things... :-)
The spark plugs for the 89 are different from the 68. Also, you need to plug the air pump holes in the back of the 89 heads. Cant remember the size off hand, Ford's part is # : F4ZZ-6E086-A or you can get themr from jegs/summit. Since you have the engine out, you might just look for the right size bolt.