my77stang

i'd be going with some cheap roller rockers, crane energizers are like 200 bucks or so. if you really need to do this on the cheap, and your very careful, you could file the end of the valve stem flat. if they are pulling the heads they can just grind the tip flat again, looks like there is enough meat - or replace the one valve. i would STILL want new ex valves all the way around if it was me.

MonsterBilly

I will look into new exhaust valves. i am going to grab some rollers while its apart too.

Wat a Pain in the A$$

fast66

Again, Check for valve spring bind. Im getting more and more confidant that this is what caused your problem. That much lift on stock heads is a bad combination.
Take it or leave it. My 2c.

urban_cowboy

Yes, you can buy just one valve. I just did it. As for springs...check to see what lift they are rated for. My springs are rated for up to .7 lift on my 383. That is a normal spec supplied for springs along with the two spring rates.

Something has caused your hydraulic cam setup to lose rocker tension and lifter preload and create valve lash which is not normal. Hydraulic cams do not run with valve lash because of the lifter valving, which is why you preload the valve train with a hydraulic cam. I think you have to check the studs and the cam. If the cam lobes are flattening or the studs are pulling out, you will get valve lash that your system is not designed for. That would create the valve train noise and lifter pop off that you have seen.

You are running .522/.538 lift with a 1.6rocker correct? That is a fair amount of lift for a 302 with a flat hydraulic cam. You can get roller cams in the .6s but that is pretty radical. Stock lift was in the .420-.430 range I believe. Hope that puts it into perspective. We do not know what springs you are running yet, but the spring rate needs to be compatible with the cam. If the spring rate is too high (built for a solid roller setup), it can actually wear out the cam lobes.

Post what you spring stats are so we can help verify that too.

You got to check out the cam though to eliminate that as an issue.

Edit: P.S. what oil are you using during your break in?

MonsterBilly

Urban

I used the Shell Rotella oil. I have changed it twice so this is its third round of oil. ( there cannot be more than a few hundred miles on it. I have only driven to my buddys house a few times and once across town to pick up some presents during Christmas) The springs came with the cam and retainers. It was all included in a kit from summit. The springs, retainers, and cam were included in the same box. i will call summit now and verify my spring rates.
Than is one thing that i love about Summit. they keep all your purchase details on file. In case you dont.

I also set my rev limiter at 5500 and i have never reached the limiter. the cam says it is rated until 6200rpm

MonsterBilly

Okay here are the specs

Cam lift/duration.
522/538
227/233

Valve spring Information Part# (Lunati 73084)
1.75 installed hieght
115 pressure
1.25 open hieght
250# open pressure

my77stang

did you do any kinda break-in on the cam when you first fired the motor up?

MonsterBilly

Yes i did a full break in

urban_cowboy

Those are not real radical springs (not in the 500-700# range) so you should not have flattened the cam if everything was broken in correctly. Can you ask tech support at what lift the springs will coil bind? It should be way more lift than you are moving your valves, but you should ask to eliminate that.

my77stang

should be fine if they came with the cam, and the pressures look good. i'd be leaning towards a stud being pulled out. were the heads baked or hot tanked? baking them really helps the studs loosen up, but either way they should have never built the motor without screw-in studs.