Looking to start a T5 conversion
01-23-2009, 04:00 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,108
Looking to start a T5 conversion
I ran into a guy who is parting out a good 89 LX and I should be picking up the good t5 for pretty cheap next week and I was looking to get together a parts list and helpful tips from people who have done the conversion before.
My car is a 67 289 C code 3 speed manual.
These are the parts I have so far;
Modern Driveline Cable Clutch Conversion
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...tch_cables.htm
T5 Crossmember
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ss_members.htm
Shifter Handle and ****
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...at=2442&page=1
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...at=2442&page=1
Am I missing anything for the conversion?
Also any tips and any other useful information to the conversion would be appreciated. This is the first time I have completely removed a transmission to be replaced by another one so anything to watch out for?
My car is a 67 289 C code 3 speed manual.
These are the parts I have so far;
Modern Driveline Cable Clutch Conversion
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...tch_cables.htm
T5 Crossmember
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ss_members.htm
Shifter Handle and ****
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...at=2442&page=1
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...at=2442&page=1
Am I missing anything for the conversion?
Also any tips and any other useful information to the conversion would be appreciated. This is the first time I have completely removed a transmission to be replaced by another one so anything to watch out for?
01-23-2009, 04:10 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,108
I didn't think you had to shorten the drive shaft, I thought it was more of a case by case situation. But what kind of shop would could you take it to do that kind of work then balance it correctly? Or is there an aftermarket one by chance or use a 87-93 driveshaft?
Last edited by remicks; 01-23-2009 at 04:15 PM.
01-23-2009, 04:24 PM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Benicia, Ca
Posts: 386
My drive shaft is going to the shop to be shortened this weekend. I only had 1/2 inch of freeplay and shop said I should have at least 1 1/4.
EDIT: My shop doing the cutting/balance/rebuild said the ideal free play should be .750 to 1.000 inches with the cars weight on the wheels (natural position)
The yoke from an auto will fit into the T5 transmission.
You have lots of other decisions to make.
I went with the T5 bell housing. This allowed me to use 10.5 inch new style clutch,
fork , T.O. bearing. I had to use a different fly wheel (Zoom) for the new clutch to bolt up. Make sure you have the right imbalance!!! I also needed a starter from a late model mustang to fit the bellhousing. Dont forget the block plate.
You will also need a new needle pilot bearing.
EDIT: My shop doing the cutting/balance/rebuild said the ideal free play should be .750 to 1.000 inches with the cars weight on the wheels (natural position)
The yoke from an auto will fit into the T5 transmission.
You have lots of other decisions to make.
I went with the T5 bell housing. This allowed me to use 10.5 inch new style clutch,
fork , T.O. bearing. I had to use a different fly wheel (Zoom) for the new clutch to bolt up. Make sure you have the right imbalance!!! I also needed a starter from a late model mustang to fit the bellhousing. Dont forget the block plate.
You will also need a new needle pilot bearing.
Last edited by chris66dad; 01-27-2009 at 12:50 PM.
01-23-2009, 04:37 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,108
Alright so shorten the driveshaft by about an inch.
I do plan to use the t5 bell housing and the Modern Driveline conversion kit. Does anybody know if that includes everything needed for the clutch (throw out bearing, clutch fork, etc) or should I recover anything else from the fox?
I'm going to be keeping the original 289 in my car and I thought I didn't have to do anything with the flywheel or clutch.
I do plan to use the t5 bell housing and the Modern Driveline conversion kit. Does anybody know if that includes everything needed for the clutch (throw out bearing, clutch fork, etc) or should I recover anything else from the fox?
I'm going to be keeping the original 289 in my car and I thought I didn't have to do anything with the flywheel or clutch.
01-23-2009, 04:57 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Benicia, Ca
Posts: 386
What clutch are you going with? If you are going to use a modern style you will need a flywheel that will bolt it up.
The Imbalance of it is critcal. The Fox fly wheel is 50oz and yours is 28oz.
A modern diapragm clutch will need the bolt pattern from the fox but the imbalance weight of a pre 82 engine
pre '82 289, 302 & all 351w = 28 oz
5.0L = 50 oz
The Imbalance of it is critcal. The Fox fly wheel is 50oz and yours is 28oz.
A modern diapragm clutch will need the bolt pattern from the fox but the imbalance weight of a pre 82 engine
pre '82 289, 302 & all 351w = 28 oz
5.0L = 50 oz
01-23-2009, 05:04 PM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northernish Eastish Central Texas
Posts: 3,302
Some things to consider Nathan...
1) look at the MustangSteve cable clutch setup. It's a lot more robust than the Modern Driveline setup.
2) If you're going with a T5 Bellhousing, I would recommend getting a Fox 50oz flywheel and having it rebalanced to the early model 28oz configuration. Any engine shop should be able to do this. Then you can use a smooth modern diaphram clutch like a King Cobra clutch
3) Depending on your header situation, you may want to consider a hydraulic clutch. Check out my website for some options and ideas.
4) Now's the time to switch to a late model PMGR starter. They are lighter, more reliable, and less prone to heat issues.
5) For the price of that shifter and ****, you can get a nice aftermarket entire shifter w/handle...like a Pro 5.0 off Ebay. You will enjoy it much more, but it won't look stock unless you change the handle.
1) look at the MustangSteve cable clutch setup. It's a lot more robust than the Modern Driveline setup.
2) If you're going with a T5 Bellhousing, I would recommend getting a Fox 50oz flywheel and having it rebalanced to the early model 28oz configuration. Any engine shop should be able to do this. Then you can use a smooth modern diaphram clutch like a King Cobra clutch
3) Depending on your header situation, you may want to consider a hydraulic clutch. Check out my website for some options and ideas.
4) Now's the time to switch to a late model PMGR starter. They are lighter, more reliable, and less prone to heat issues.
5) For the price of that shifter and ****, you can get a nice aftermarket entire shifter w/handle...like a Pro 5.0 off Ebay. You will enjoy it much more, but it won't look stock unless you change the handle.
01-23-2009, 05:17 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,108
Some things to consider Nathan...
1) look at the MustangSteve cable clutch setup. It's a lot more robust than the Modern Driveline setup.
2) If you're going with a T5 Bellhousing, I would recommend getting a Fox 50oz flywheel and having it rebalanced to the early model 28oz configuration. Any engine shop should be able to do this. Then you can use a smooth modern diaphram clutch like a King Cobra clutch
3) Depending on your header situation, you may want to consider a hydraulic clutch. Check out my website for some options and ideas.
4) Now's the time to switch to a late model PMGR starter. They are lighter, more reliable, and less prone to heat issues.
5) For the price of that shifter and ****, you can get a nice aftermarket entire shifter w/handle...like a Pro 5.0 off Ebay. You will enjoy it much more, but it won't look stock unless you change the handle.
1) look at the MustangSteve cable clutch setup. It's a lot more robust than the Modern Driveline setup.
2) If you're going with a T5 Bellhousing, I would recommend getting a Fox 50oz flywheel and having it rebalanced to the early model 28oz configuration. Any engine shop should be able to do this. Then you can use a smooth modern diaphram clutch like a King Cobra clutch
3) Depending on your header situation, you may want to consider a hydraulic clutch. Check out my website for some options and ideas.
4) Now's the time to switch to a late model PMGR starter. They are lighter, more reliable, and less prone to heat issues.
5) For the price of that shifter and ****, you can get a nice aftermarket entire shifter w/handle...like a Pro 5.0 off Ebay. You will enjoy it much more, but it won't look stock unless you change the handle.
For the flywheel I don't know if I confused myself with what you said. I need to switch from my 28oz stock flywheel to the 50oz to I can use modern fox clutches. But to use it I have to have the 50oz flywheel reblanced to a 28oz by a engine shop so I can use it in my engine or they machine it another way?
My headers are currently stock and if I do plan on changing them I will be more than likely be sticking with shorty style more than likely the JBA. Also I just have always liked a cable style more than a hydraulic by preference, I like the feedback.
And the starter is just a stock 5.0 starter right?
I'll have to look into the shifter when I get back to my hotel from work, can't get to ebay from here, would you mind posting a link?
01-23-2009, 07:23 PM
#10
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
WARNING READ...
This whole "shorten your DS about an inch" business might just be the cause of me wasting lots of time and some money on pinon angles and such.
Im not sure yet but the DS yoke might be hanging out from the trans tail shaft too far because I had it shorted 1 inch so it would fit with out binding. I followed someones advice when they said "ah about an inch and your good to go"
And here I am chasing my tail fighting pinion angles when it might be the DS is too short...
Im thinking that "oh about an inch" needs to be rephrasied to: you need to measure the distance from the face of the tail shaft housing where the oil seal fits to the face of the DS yoke. the gap between the two must be greater than 0.468 but no larger than 0.689.
Im begining to think this "about an inch" business costed me about 350 dollars and coutning....extra.
keep that in mind.
-Gun
This whole "shorten your DS about an inch" business might just be the cause of me wasting lots of time and some money on pinon angles and such.
Im not sure yet but the DS yoke might be hanging out from the trans tail shaft too far because I had it shorted 1 inch so it would fit with out binding. I followed someones advice when they said "ah about an inch and your good to go"
And here I am chasing my tail fighting pinion angles when it might be the DS is too short...
Im thinking that "oh about an inch" needs to be rephrasied to: you need to measure the distance from the face of the tail shaft housing where the oil seal fits to the face of the DS yoke. the gap between the two must be greater than 0.468 but no larger than 0.689.
Im begining to think this "about an inch" business costed me about 350 dollars and coutning....extra.
keep that in mind.
-Gun