Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Looking to start a T5 conversion

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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #21  
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pascal
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Originally Posted by Gun Jam
actually every mustang is different as far as I can tell. When doing the swap you can NEVER assume that your DS must be made shorter. Sometimes they are fine as they are sometimes they need to be .750 shorter sometimes over an 1" shorter.
The only way to know how much to trim off it is to physically measure it once its all ready to go.

-Gun
That's what I did and realized I couldn't get away without shortening some.
I didn't mind because if I remember well, it cost me $150 to get my DS shorten, balanced with the yoke and new joints. That's dirt cheap, even for 10 years ago prices...
We're lucky here in Orlando, to have a good shop that specializes in DS and differentials.
Been there for more than 20 years now.

Anyway, your observations are very helpful because I'm sure that some folks don't need to shorten anything...
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by pascal
Comes with the clutch kit.
Do you mean the pilot and throwout bearings come with the Modern Driveline cable kit or that the pressure plate comes with the clutch itself?

And thanks for the driveshaft help Gun, I will wait to do anything with it until I have the transmission actually installed.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #23  
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No, the clutch kit includes:

-Discs
-Pressure plate
-TO bearing

The pilot is separate though...
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:27 PM
  #24  
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Here's a roller pilot bearing....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-R...Q5fAccessories
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:31 PM
  #25  
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this looks like theh flywheel you may need too. I'd give them a call and tell them what you're doing..see if this is the right diameter and tooth size

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/302-3...3A1|240%3A1318
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 11:18 PM
  #26  
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When I was doing my t-5 swap I needed my driveshaft shortened, needed new u-joints, a new t-5 yoke, and had to have one of the ends change to accept newer style u-joints. All of this added up to be pretty expensive. I found a place on ebay called banning drivline and they made me a brand new driveshaft with new u-joints and a new yoke for $250.00. Here is a link to them on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tchlink:top:us
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #27  
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When i the the swap in my 66 coupe i used the original yolk and drive shaft. I just replaced the u joints. didnt need to cut it. I have riight at 1/2 of movement. so far so good.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 12:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by MonsterBilly
When i the the swap in my 66 coupe i used the original yolk and drive shaft. I just replaced the u joints. didnt need to cut it. I have riight at 1/2 of movement. so far so good.
I remember reading something about that. You can use an adapter u-joint or do you have to get the 1310 to 1330 u-joint and a new yoke? What exactly do you have to do to adapt the current driveshaft? Replace the slip yoke with a 28 spline one for the t5 or can you use your current slip yoke if your driveshaft ends up being the correct length?

And thanks for the links to the ebay parts James, the list of parts is coming together. I'll try to call the flywheel guys monday or sometime this week if I can get a chance.

Last edited by remicks; Jan 25, 2009 at 02:09 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JamesW
this looks like theh flywheel you may need too. I'd give them a call and tell them what you're doing..see if this is the right diameter and tooth size

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/302-3...3A1|240%3A1318
That is a great price for that! I wish I had seen that before I bought my Zoom flywheel...

Originally Posted by remicks
I remember reading something about that. You can use an adapter u-joint or do you have to get the 1310 to 1330 u-joint and a new yoke? What exactly do you have to do to adapt the current driveshaft? Replace the slip yoke with a 28 spline one for the t5 or can you use your current slip yoke if your driveshaft ends up being the correct length?

And thanks for the links to the ebay parts James, the list of parts is coming together.
My original yoke slipped right into the T5 and plan on just having new u joints installed and balancing it. I did purchase a T5 yoke from CL for $20 that I was going to use. I think I like the idea of having the longer original yoke rather that the shorter T5. The T5 does have a thicker body and wider shoulder though...

Originally Posted by MonsterBilly
When i the the swap in my 66 coupe i used the original yolk and drive shaft. I just replaced the u joints. didnt need to cut it. I have riight at 1/2 of movement. so far so good.
How long have you had it installed? I have heard you could use the original length but have not talked with anyone who did. I also have .5 inches of freeplay movement.
Old Jan 26, 2009 | 12:51 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JamesW
this looks like theh flywheel you may need too. I'd give them a call and tell them what you're doing..see if this is the right diameter and tooth size

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/302-3...3A1|240%3A1318
I called them and confirmed that is the right flywheel to use a 10.5" clutch with.



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