Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Shackles or no shackles??

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
leroman's Avatar
leroman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 171
From: Miami ,Florida
Red face Shackles or no shackles??

I bought my '68 recently and since i have limited experience with muscle cars ; can someone explain to me what is the function of the shackles and traction bars? and is there a better and cheaper way to create "the stance" which i love about mustangs,have better handling on a daily driver and eliminate all the squeaking? i know it may be a "dumb" question but i am X generation guy who grew up with all modern amenities in cars but i love the old horse and i am trying to learn how to make it better and keep it for the long haul ,besides i am reading a lot about the "resto mod" movement(keep the original appereance outside while upgrading the interior,handling, etc.) , which appeals to my generation , right know it sits on 15" cragar rims,289 engine,4 barrel holley carb,automatic tranny,came w/ posi traction (still don't know the spline count but it burns both tires evenly) but i am not into racing,soon to install a classic air system .thanks for the help !!!!!!!!
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #2  
1971mach1's Avatar
1971mach1
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 469
From: The garage (near SF bay- Calif)
Default

Not sure what stance you want. I personally like the origional stock stance which is a little lower in the back. The shackles were inexpensive aftermarket way of raising the rear of the car so large tires would fit in the back without hitting the fender. They were also used to raise old sagging springs. Now you can also achieve the "raised rear" effect by adding air bags or air shocks.
Traction bars keep the wheels from hopping on hard launches when racing. Sounds like you're not going to do that so just take them off.
Adding front and rear sway bars would improve handling alot and aren't that expensive. There are also kits for rack and pinion steering and strut suspension, alot more expensive though.
The "squeeks" in the front are probably the upper control arm bushings, they need grease or to be replaced.

Last edited by 1971mach1; Feb 13, 2009 at 10:51 AM.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #3  
lunarweasel's Avatar
lunarweasel
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,282
From: TX
Default

Lucky dog! You got a fastback for your first classic.

Welcome.

Most will say ditch the shackles. With 15s I can't see how you would need them unless the backspacing is way off somehow. You may want to keep the traction bars if you like the way the car is hooking up right now. Just a thought.

Let's see some pics!
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #4  
Norm Peterson's Avatar
Norm Peterson
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
Default

Long shackles are about the worst thing you can do to the rear suspension if you want friendly daily-driveability. Friend of mine had that done on his fastback by a Ford dealership shop "back in the day". If the road wasn't smooth, the rear end wanted to go every which way but straight. I drove it that way. Exactly once.

You can do a little work with the stance with tire size stagger (no ABS to screw up). A little more with spring selection and the Shelby mod for the front UCAs. A true daily driver with new rear springs doesn't really need traction bars and is probably better off without them.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; Feb 13, 2009 at 11:27 AM.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 11:48 AM
  #5  
groho's Avatar
groho
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,195
Default

For the cost of shackles, you can remove your leafs yourself, and take them into a spring shop to have them re-arc'd, within limits. If they've lost they're tension, and your bushings are shot, it's best to replace them. Most spring shops will arc or d-arc leafs for beer money. I've had leafs adjust'd up to an 1"+, up or down without a problem. IMO, avoid shackles or blocks, especially if your running any decent HP.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #6  
crunchyskippy's Avatar
crunchyskippy
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 528
From: Northern Virginia
Default

Originally Posted by leroman
can someone explain to me what is the function of the shackles and traction bars?
Hi Leroman, welcome to the forum. I think the posts above probably answer your question, as it seemed to be mostly related to the "stance" of the vehicle.

But just in case you were still looking for information regarding the function of shackles and traction bars...

Shackles are actually necessary on all leaf spring suspensions. They simply provide a pivot point for the leafs (which elongate when compressed). As stated above, I believe you were probably referring to long shackles vs. regular shackles.

Traction bars are known for reducing (and hopefully eliminating) wheel hop. This is caused from the torque of the wheels actually twisting the axle forward. It eventually twists to the point that the stored energy of the twisted leafs overpower the wheel traction and snap backwards. Lastly, once the leafs fully "unwind", the process repeats itself over and over... Stiffer (or new) leafs provide similar results unless you have a monster engine.

Hope that helps. I'm sure somebody will correct me if I mistated anything.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #7  
Norm Peterson's Avatar
Norm Peterson
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
Default

Looks pretty good .

There is, however, a complete alternative to shackles while still retaining leaf springs. I don't know much about "sliders" beyond the fact that they exist.

http://www.jegs.com/i/AFCO/921/20236S/10002/-1


Norm
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #8  
jspagna1's Avatar
jspagna1
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 940
From: CT
Default

Get rid of the shackles and hust replace the leaf springs. If the traction bars are the bolt on kind get rid of those too. Get some nice Lakewoods that replace the rearend plates and the car should hook up just fine after adjustments.

http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/LAK21602.htm
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:55 PM
  #9  
Nick.Simonds's Avatar
Nick.Simonds
4th Gear Member
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,241
From: Houston, TX
Default

Originally Posted by jspagna1
Get rid of the shackles and hust replace the leaf springs. If the traction bars are the bolt on kind get rid of those too. Get some nice Lakewoods that replace the rearend plates and the car should hook up just fine after adjustments.

http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/LAK21602.htm
Slappers? That's gross.

Keep the traction bars, they aren't hurting anything.
Old Feb 13, 2009 | 02:28 PM
  #10  
leroman's Avatar
leroman
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 171
From: Miami ,Florida
Default PICS

Originally Posted by lunarweasel
Lucky dog! You got a fastback for your first classic.

Welcome.

Most will say ditch the shackles. With 15s I can't see how you would need them unless the backspacing is way off somehow. You may want to keep the traction bars if you like the way the car is hooking up right now. Just a thought.

Let's see some pics!
Don't know how to post pics , can you tell me how? thanks!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:56 AM.