Shackles or no shackles??
I bought my '68 recently and since i have limited experience with muscle cars ; can someone explain to me what is the function of the shackles and traction bars? and is there a better and cheaper way to create "the stance" which i love about mustangs,have better handling on a daily driver and eliminate all the squeaking? i know it may be a "dumb" question but i am X generation guy who grew up with all modern amenities in cars but i love the old horse and i am trying to learn how to make it better and keep it for the long haul ,besides i am reading a lot about the "resto mod" movement(keep the original appereance outside while upgrading the interior,handling, etc.) , which appeals to my generation , right know it sits on 15" cragar rims,289 engine,4 barrel holley carb,automatic tranny,came w/ posi traction (still don't know the spline count but it burns both tires evenly) but i am not into racing,soon to install a classic air system .thanks for the help !!!!!!!!
Not sure what stance you want. I personally like the origional stock stance which is a little lower in the back. The shackles were inexpensive aftermarket way of raising the rear of the car so large tires would fit in the back without hitting the fender. They were also used to raise old sagging springs. Now you can also achieve the "raised rear" effect by adding air bags or air shocks.
Traction bars keep the wheels from hopping on hard launches when racing. Sounds like you're not going to do that so just take them off.
Adding front and rear sway bars would improve handling alot and aren't that expensive. There are also kits for rack and pinion steering and strut suspension, alot more expensive though.
The "squeeks" in the front are probably the upper control arm bushings, they need grease or to be replaced.
Traction bars keep the wheels from hopping on hard launches when racing. Sounds like you're not going to do that so just take them off.
Adding front and rear sway bars would improve handling alot and aren't that expensive. There are also kits for rack and pinion steering and strut suspension, alot more expensive though.
The "squeeks" in the front are probably the upper control arm bushings, they need grease or to be replaced.
Last edited by 1971mach1; Feb 13, 2009 at 10:51 AM.
Lucky dog! You got a fastback for your first classic. 
Welcome.
Most will say ditch the shackles. With 15s I can't see how you would need them unless the backspacing is way off somehow. You may want to keep the traction bars if you like the way the car is hooking up right now. Just a thought.
Let's see some pics!

Welcome.
Most will say ditch the shackles. With 15s I can't see how you would need them unless the backspacing is way off somehow. You may want to keep the traction bars if you like the way the car is hooking up right now. Just a thought.
Let's see some pics!
Long shackles are about the worst thing you can do to the rear suspension if you want friendly daily-driveability. Friend of mine had that done on his fastback by a Ford dealership shop "back in the day". If the road wasn't smooth, the rear end wanted to go every which way but straight. I drove it that way. Exactly once.
You can do a little work with the stance with tire size stagger (no ABS to screw up). A little more with spring selection and the Shelby mod for the front UCAs. A true daily driver with new rear springs doesn't really need traction bars and is probably better off without them.
Norm
You can do a little work with the stance with tire size stagger (no ABS to screw up). A little more with spring selection and the Shelby mod for the front UCAs. A true daily driver with new rear springs doesn't really need traction bars and is probably better off without them.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; Feb 13, 2009 at 11:27 AM.
For the cost of shackles, you can remove your leafs yourself, and take them into a spring shop to have them re-arc'd, within limits. If they've lost they're tension, and your bushings are shot, it's best to replace them. Most spring shops will arc or d-arc leafs for beer money. I've had leafs adjust'd up to an 1"+, up or down without a problem. IMO, avoid shackles or blocks, especially if your running any decent HP.
But just in case you were still looking for information regarding the function of shackles and traction bars...
Shackles are actually necessary on all leaf spring suspensions. They simply provide a pivot point for the leafs (which elongate when compressed). As stated above, I believe you were probably referring to long shackles vs. regular shackles.
Traction bars are known for reducing (and hopefully eliminating) wheel hop. This is caused from the torque of the wheels actually twisting the axle forward. It eventually twists to the point that the stored energy of the twisted leafs overpower the wheel traction and snap backwards. Lastly, once the leafs fully "unwind", the process repeats itself over and over... Stiffer (or new) leafs provide similar results unless you have a monster engine.
Hope that helps. I'm sure somebody will correct me if I mistated anything.
Looks pretty good
.
There is, however, a complete alternative to shackles while still retaining leaf springs. I don't know much about "sliders" beyond the fact that they exist.
http://www.jegs.com/i/AFCO/921/20236S/10002/-1
Norm
.There is, however, a complete alternative to shackles while still retaining leaf springs. I don't know much about "sliders" beyond the fact that they exist.
http://www.jegs.com/i/AFCO/921/20236S/10002/-1
Norm
Get rid of the shackles and hust replace the leaf springs. If the traction bars are the bolt on kind get rid of those too. Get some nice Lakewoods that replace the rearend plates and the car should hook up just fine after adjustments.
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/LAK21602.htm
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/LAK21602.htm
Get rid of the shackles and hust replace the leaf springs. If the traction bars are the bolt on kind get rid of those too. Get some nice Lakewoods that replace the rearend plates and the car should hook up just fine after adjustments.
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/LAK21602.htm
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/LAK21602.htm
Keep the traction bars, they aren't hurting anything.
Lucky dog! You got a fastback for your first classic. 
Welcome.
Most will say ditch the shackles. With 15s I can't see how you would need them unless the backspacing is way off somehow. You may want to keep the traction bars if you like the way the car is hooking up right now. Just a thought.
Let's see some pics!

Welcome.
Most will say ditch the shackles. With 15s I can't see how you would need them unless the backspacing is way off somehow. You may want to keep the traction bars if you like the way the car is hooking up right now. Just a thought.
Let's see some pics!


