They both pump water the same direction, but the later ones spin backwards to do it. Spinning it the wrong direction will not make it pump at all. The vanes will be going the wrong direction. And I dont think the pump outlets are even in the same location.

 

Back to the first question. I just measured my FlyWheel from the 86 to the 68. The 68 is a smaller flywheel which is 28oz. and it fits the C4 Automatic and starter that I have.

The 86 is bigger flywheel and has a 50oz. How ever, the holes do not line up as the 68 flywheel does.

Can someone guide me on what FLywheel to get so it can fit my 65 mustang C4, so the engine does not vibrate too.

Thanks guys

 

Spin the flywheel around till the holes line up. They're not drilled evenly spaced so that the balance weight will be in the right place.

There's this, but it's probably the same size as what you have
http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy0...atKey=EMUSTANG

 

as far as the pan is concerned, just make sure that 1) it clears the crossmember and linkage and 2) that the correct oil pump and pickup are used. I know that Ford changed the location and orientation of the oil pickup numerous times.

regarding vibration- use BOTH a 50oz flexplate (automatic) and harmonic balancer OR BOTH a 28oz flexplate and balancer. on the last 302 swap I did, I think that we ended up buying a SFI flexplate that was drilled for early and late torque converters.

 

if the overall diameter of the flywheel from the 86 is too small, use the 68 crank and have the lip machined down on the back of the crank. they should install a seal saver on the back of the crank after they do that. then you can use the 68 flywheel and you'll have to use the 68 balancer. I'd use the 68 rods too as they should have thicker main caps than the later model wimpy rods.

you need to use the 68 timing cover, so you can use the fuel pump and have a place for the oil dipstick (remember to plug the hole in the side of the block where the later model dipsticks go in).

lastly, you cant just go and reuse an old flat tappet cam unless you kept the lifters in order and even then you have to hope it will work. roller cams very very rarely go bad, and they add power so you need to seriously reconsider using them.

 

Stick with the roller cam setup. Heck, the reduction in friction alone is worth some added power. Plus, like my77stang said, they will last for a long time- probably longer than your valve guides.