majalat

Heres the problem... Ive got a 1969 mustang with a 351w. Had to replace the stock cam and distributor because both of the gears broke on them so i replaced the distributor with a electronic one. Now my problem is that 9 out of 10 trys the car wont start. It will turn over but its not getting a spark. Its timed right because when it does start it runs great. Checked the neutral safety switch and its right. Any suggestions?

majalat

please help

1slow67

Checked the coil? If it isn't getting spark when it is cranking it is most likely the coil.

boogerschnot

Are you sure its timed right? You may be way advanced and sure enough, when it does finally catch it will run great.. Try backing off the timing a little, just to be sure. Or next time it starts, check it with a timing gun.

1slow67

When we replaced my dizzy they told us to have the timing mark on balance equal TDC on block and then make the rotor point at 1 on the dizzy cap.

majalat

When it was running once before we put the timing light on it and it was just about on the money. Swapped the coil out with another and still nothing. The only problem that i ran into was the wire coming off of the ignition switch the yellow one i believe that goes to the battery and then to the coil wasnt hot when i put a test light on it. I ran a wire from the battery straight to the coil which then made the connection at the coil have power but still the car would not start? Would it be possible that the magnetic pickup in the distributor isnt good?

1slow67

The yellow will be hot only when the ignition switch is in the run position.

majalat

thats what i thought checked it and its hot when the ignition is in run but when i put the test light on the postive end of the coil it only lights up when the engine is being turned over. Is that correct or is there supposed to be constant power at the coil when the key is in the run position? Also when i was looking under the dash i found a brown wire that was stuck to the dash. Is that supposed to be tied into something or what i checked it with the test light and its not hot at any time. Sorry about all the questions.

Starfury

The coil + should have power at all times when the key is in the 'run' position. Where were you grounding the test light to? You have to ground it to the chassis, not the coil - terminal.

Speaking of grounds, how are your grounds? Do you have a proper engine-to-firewall ground?

What distributor are you using? Most electronic ignitions require 12V at the coil, but the stock wiring will only supply ~8V to the coil. You need to bypass the stock ignition resistor wire and replace the coil with an internally resisted unit (or an aftermarket hi-performance coil) designed to run on 12V.

majalat

Thats what i thought i had the test light grounded to neg side of battery. Not the best of distributors its a procomp distributor and a procomp high energy coil. All of the grounds are good.