hahaha well all those things have been checked. yeah i was a little skeptical on the alternator working properly, i almost just bought a new one for the heck of it. well see im going to check more tmrw and see what happens. The solenoid has nothing to do with this right? I mean i got a new one sitting around and I was going to swap that out since I had it.

 

How do you know the alternator is fine? You tested it how?

What is the Cold Crank Amp rating of your batt?

 

Alternator is good? Battery is good? Lead from the alt is good? Well then you have not ruled out the belt?

It sounds like it’s either loose or could be dry rotted and not turning the pulley on the alternator. Some times when they get old they can dry rot out, just grab the belt (when the car is off) and squeeze it, if rubber flakes off onto your hand or turns your hand black then it’s probably time to get another belt.

If the belt is loose….you take a straight edge from the alt pulley to the water pump pully, then take a ruler and push down in the middle of the distance on the belt from the alt to the water pump. I think the general rule is no more than an 1” of play on the belt.

I hope that helps.

From Iraq:
James

 

sounds like you have something hooked up wrong.I drive my 65 around for days with no alternator and a high energy ignition system,it takes quite a while to drain the battery to the point where it wont start, let alone drain it to the point where the lights dont work.I would go through and check every connection starting at the battery.If the alternator is working you should have at least 14v at the battery.

 

ok i finally figured it out, just to let you know here is the list of things replaced

battery $75
new fan belt $13
voltage regulator $55
alternator $55 (never installed it but finally gave in and bought it because i couldn't figure out what else could be wrong)
$198 spent all for nothing (except i need the fan belt)

i tested the grounds coming from my voltage regulator and neither one was grounded correctly. so i grounded the ground wires and jumped my car, turn the lights on and it ran without shutting off. so the voltage problem was fixed. then i tried starting the car but no power, so i tested to see if the battery cables were getting enough volts. turns on they were only getting 3 volts because the inside part of the connection to the battery were completely corroded over. cleaned them and every works fine now. stupiddddddddd

the only reason the car was starting was because the jumper cables were connecting to the outside part of the wires that weren't corroded.

thanks for the help guys

 

Aha. Well, glad you figured it out. Look at it this way, though: now you've got a bunch of new parts you don't have to worry about replacing for a while

 

pretty much as stated above check connections,,loose,,dirty etc,,,,to see if it's the battery just start the car somehow and pull the neg off the battery and jumper cables,,if the car dies issue is somewhere else